Grand Jours de Bourgogne 2012 – Tasting the Perfect 2010 Burgundy Vintage Part II

Where Mazoyeres shined in 2010!

Part II of my report covers those wines sampled in the final days of the week spent tasting at this year’s Grand Jours de Bourgogne. These too are primarily from the outstanding 2010 vintage, peppered throughout with superlative examples from the very different but also wonderful vintage of 2009. These reviews focus on – as have all my reports on this vintage thus far – the estate-bottlers. Reviews of the negociants will follow at a later date.

And for those newly arriving, I recall for you my thoughts on this perfect vintage:

Having visited Burgundy more than two dozen times since first stepping foot in these respected vineyards in the 1980s, I have personally experienced many of this generation’s “greatest vintages ever produced” – first hand. Sampling literally thousands of the Cote D’Or’s singular examples, I have compiled volumes of notes spanning more than 25 years. During this span since the 1980s, I have tasted, written about and purchased no less than a half dozen vintages that could have been (and were) declared a perfect vintage (and for what it’s worth, I even worked the harvest for two of these stellar vintages, including 1990). Moreover, I’ve also experienced at least that many additional harvests where the vignerons and press were at odds with one another over declaring those vintage worthy of the “perfection” moniker. And then there comes a vintage such as 2010. Critics, wine-makers, consumers – it appears EVERYONE is beating a path to the nearest outlet for an opportunity to taste and order these wines. The wines of 2010 – and I’m primarily focusing on several of the reds in this report, yet the whites are equally superb – at this point in their evolution, outshine the 1985s, and 1989s. They outshine the 1990s, and 1993s, the 1995s, 1996s and 1999s. These 2010s outperform the 2002s, 2003s, the 2005s (yes, even the great 05s), as well as any vintage since those world-stopping efforts. In short, there simply isn’t a vintage in modern history that compares or competes with the 2010s.

(Part IV – The Event at Palais des Congres) –

Domaine des Croix


2010 Beaune 1er Cru Cent Vignes

Interestingly, David Croix reveres Albert Morot; and while stylistically the two vignerons bottle uniquely different wines, for 2010, the pristinely ruby robes acquired by both producers across their ranges substantiates the claim that 2010 is a resounding success from Marsannay to Santenay – and everywhere in between. On the nose, this offers absolutely wonderful fruit nuances of pure red pinot fruit with hints of pure terroir that carry over to the palate, which is also blessed with similar nuances supported by great grip and terrific focus. A true success and worth a look.

90 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Pertuisots

Interestingly, David Croix reveres Albert Morot; and while stylistically the two vignerons bottle uniquely different wines, for 2010, the pristinely ruby robes acquired by both producers across their ranges substantiates the claim that 2010 is a resounding success from Marsannay to Santenay – and everywhere in between. Aromatically, this offers buckets of red pinot fruits that are best described as utterly delicious. This juicy quality carries over to the palate where this offer is all about the fruit; this will make fans of up front, lush, pure and borderline hedonistically styled pinots very happy. Delicious and lip-smacking.

90 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes

Interestingly, David Croix reveres Albert Morot; and while stylistically the two vignerons bottle uniquely different wines, for 2010, the pristinely ruby robes acquired by both producers across their ranges substantiates the claim that 2010 is a resounding success from Marsannay to Santenay – and everywhere in between. Copious amounts of black pinot fruit as well as plums and black cherries greet the nose and are allied to a whiff of terroir that carry over to the palate where the texture is utterly mouth-coating and again absolutely delicious. This offers great concentration and serious length that are well balanced; this will also reward some down time. Great stuff.

91 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Greves

Interestingly, David Croix reveres Albert Morot; and while stylistically the two vignerons bottle uniquely different wines, for 2010, the pristinely ruby robes acquired by both producers across their ranges substantiates the claim that 2010 is a resounding success from Marsannay to Santenay – and everywhere in between. Here we have the first of these 1er Crus that aromatically offers layer upon layer of the most pristine terroir nuances: truffle, underbrush, mineral and then wood smoke all combine with the sweetest fruit component to really engage the sinuses. The fruit is taking a back seat to the utterly transparent terroir today, suggesting great complexity, focus and age-ability. This is one of the most serious of its genre and a real treat to dissect.

92 points

Domaine Albert Morot


2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Bataillere

There are few if any producers who outshine Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry, and as the crystalline ruby red robes across the range for his 2010s attest, he’s at the top of the heap for this vintage, as well. Aromatically, as per usual, this offers a full cornucopia of pinot fruit, ranging from red to blue to black fruits of every description. Allied to that is a sense of place from the spicy earthiness, all of which carry over to the airy, yet palate coating flavors that are textbook Savigny with their earthy yet fruity components all in harmony. Delicious.

89 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Les Cent Vignes

There are few if any producers who outshine Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry, and as the crystalline ruby red robes across the range for his 2010s attest, he’s at the top of the heap for this vintage, as well. A bowl full of macerating black pinot fruit greets the nose and is allied to just a hint of toasty wood smoke; all of which carry over to the palate that is medium weight, juicy and – again – just delicious. This is decidedly darker overall than the Savigny, but no less lip smacking.

90 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Les Toussaints

There are few if any producers who outshine Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry, and as the crystalline ruby red robes across the range for his 2010s attest, he’s at the top of the heap for this vintage, as well. Aromatically, this offers yet another absolutely alluring nose of deeply intense black pinot fruit that is so jammy, one imagines macerating plums. Additional aromatic complexity arrives via nuances of minerality and a whiff of cocoa that bring one back for another go at the nose. The flavors are equally delicious, and follow the promise from the nose to reveal sweetness and hints of toasty wood, all supported by terrific acidity and a long, focused finish. Great stuff.

91 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Les Aigrots

There are few if any producers who outshine Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry, and as the crystalline ruby red robes across the range for his 2010s attest, he’s at the top of the heap for this vintage, as well. Comparing the aromatics to the preceding, here we have a decidedly redder pinot dominated nose of macerating strawberry, cherry and other red pinot fruits, allied to toasty wood smoke and a sense of place from a whiff of stony minerality. The palate, too is pure red fruit dominated, almost airy, and brings that whiff of minerality from the aromatics into play. As this wine opened in the glass, it took on some weight, suggesting that a couple years in the cellar won’t hurt it in the least. Good stuff.

91 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes

There are few if any producers who outshine Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry, and as the crystalline ruby red robes across the range for his 2010s attest, he’s at the top of the heap for this vintage, as well. Aromatically, we return to the cornucopia of fruits, with literally buckets of the purest red, blue and even black pinot fruit all swimming in layers of cassis and the most pronounced – yet not intrusive – wood smoke aspect of these Beaunes yet experienced. The palate is equally packed and expansive, with the most prominent flavor today being black fruits and wood smoke. This is a brooding and palate gripping wine that demands some down time. And it will handsomely reward same.

92+? points


2010 Beaune Les Teurons

There are few if any producers who outshine Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry, and as the crystalline ruby red robes across the range for his 2010s attest, he’s at the top of the heap for this vintage, as well. Aromatically, the plum and other assorted black pinot fruited profiles return and are allied to the spiciest nuances thus far to include clove, allspice and other assorted baking spices. On the palate, the dark and somber flavors are met by layers of earthy, powerful and gripping minerality, all of it held together by a tannic spine that suggests half a decade or more of down time. This could almost pass for top flight, masculine Nuits, and it’s as serious as Beaune gets.

93 points

Domaine Tollot-Beaut et Fils


2009 Corton

Saturated, deep garnet color with a persistent hue right to the rim. Aromatically, this borders on the surmaturity side, with overtly cooked red fruits that are allied to seriously earthy and smoky nuances that all carry over to the palate that is extremely full bodied and fiercely tannic. Today, this wine seems off its mark, as this is usually more refined in my memory. Could this have been opened too long?

90? points

2009 Corton Bressandes

Similarly to the Corton, this displays excellent garnet hues, which are persistent to the rim. This, too, reveals an almost stewed fruit component to its black fruit compote and slightly volatile as well as candied fruit aromatic that is supported by slightly more refined as well as serious earth tones of underbrush and soil. The palate is more together, with grippy tannins, full bodied structure and excellent length, but the stewed fruits again suggest that this wine may have been opened a bit longer than is optimum.

91? points

Domaine Edmond Cornu et Fils


2009 Chorey les Beaune Les Bons Ores

Pierre, son of Edmond Cornu offered no 2010s this year, explaining that they simply weren’t ready to show. That’s probably a good thing, too as the style Chez Cornu, allied to the fruit forward attractiveness of the 2009 vintage made some fans for Cornu at the GJDB this year. A slightly pale, yet gem-stone ruby red color, crystalline to the rim, adorns the Chorey. Aromatically, this is straightforward, juicy and with that tell-tale peppery character that announces this wine; but with the 2009, there’s a bit more red pinot fruit on the nose as well as palate. This is barely medium weight and all the better for it, as this is a starter pinot for those looking to jump into juicy, spicy reds that offer solid pinot character, terroir and easy going personalities. Solid and juicy.

89 points


2009 Ladoix 1er Cru Le Bois Roussot

Pierre, son of Edmond Cornu offered no 2010s this year, explaining that they simply weren’t ready to show. That’s probably a good thing, too as the style Chez Cornu, allied to the fruit forward attractiveness of the 2009 vintage made some fans for Cornu at the GJDB this year. The color on the Ladoix is medium ruby red, persistent to the rim. Aromatically, Pierre describes this wine as sous-bois – that underbrush/woodsy aromatic profile – and those nuances are married to a beautiful array of red pinot fruits that recall cherries and strawberries. The palate is likewise flavored and the density as well as structure are present while the finish is mouth coating and juicy. There’s a sense of place from the hints of minerality, too. Delicious.

90 points


2009 Aloxe Corton 1er Cru Les Valozieres

Pierre, son of Edmond Cornu offered no 2010s this year, explaining that they simply weren’t ready to show. That’s probably a good thing, too as the style Chez Cornu, allied to the fruit forward attractiveness of the 2009 vintage made some fans for Cornu at the GJDB this year. The color on the Aloxe is impressively saturated ruby-red. As is generally the case (my first encounter with Cornu’s Valozieres was their 1999), this is very nearly Corton – aromatically and literally – offering layers of wood smoke, truffle, iron and ripe black pinot fruit. On the palate, this is quite grippy, yet with the lush character of 09, this is tamed a bit to offer a more flattering profile of black berry along with the powerful, deep and masculine structure. Built to last.

91 points

2009 Corton Bressandes

Pierre, son of Edmond Cornu offered no 2010s this year, explaining that they simply weren’t ready to show. That’s probably a good thing, too as the style Chez Cornu, allied to the fruit forward attractiveness of the 2009 vintage made some fans for Cornu at the GJDB this year. Saturated, garnet color with a crystalline robe right to the rim – impressive color on this wine. Aromatically, this is elegantly, profoundly red fruited and borders on the perfumed side, with the aromas being allied to a sweetly spiced combination of baking spices just a whiff of sous-bois. The palate is dense, structured and long, yet the sweetness of the 09 fruit is alluring. Built to last, put this away for awhile and see what a decade has in store. Serious and long, the tannins hold it all together.

92+ points

Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard


2010 Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Fichots

Visually, these 2010s from Jean-Jacques Girard recall another stellar vintage – 2002 – which marked my introduction to these classic examples of well balanced wines of great typicity; across the range these revealed brilliant, gemstone-like ruby tones that were consistently crystalline to the rim. Aromatically, this leans to the blue pinot side of the spectrum, offering layers of sweet fruit allied to precise minerality and plum skin notes that all carry over to the precise, pure and medium bodied palate. This finishes with a nice pop of crunchy fruit along with balancing acidity and is already a joy to drink.

90 points

2010 Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses

Visually, these 2010s from Jean-Jacques Girard recall another stellar vintage – 2002 – which marked my introduction to these classic examples of well balanced wines of great typicity; across the range these revealed brilliant, gemstone-like ruby tones that were consistently crystalline to the rim. From the vineyard that is located below Ile des Vergelesses (the Ile being located below Savigny’s Aux Vergelesses) and adjacent to Fichots (yet consistently unique from one another Chez JJ Girard), aromatically this runs to the red pinot side of the spectrum vis-à-vis its stable mate. These red fruited nuances are allied to classic mineral nuances that introduce a palate that is slightly fuller than the Fichots, finishing with similar complexity and that pop of fruit Girard is known for. Delicious. 90 points

2010 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Peuillets

Visually, these 2010s from Jean-Jacques Girard recall another stellar vintage – 2002 – which marked my introduction to these classic examples of well balanced wines of great typicity; across the range these revealed brilliant, gemstone-like ruby tones that were consistently crystalline to the rim. Being based in Savigny for numerous generations, these are where JJ Girard really shines. For 2010, the Peuillets – a lieu dit where JJ Girard consistently leads the pack – offers buckets of sappy red fruits running from red plums to macerating cherries to ultra ripe strawberries; plum skins make an appearance on the nose as well. These wonderfully pure red fruits are allied on the nose to perfectly transparent nuances of mineral and stones, which all reappear on the wonderfully delicious and utterly alluring palate. This is medium bodied and very well balanced, and while it’s very hard to resist right now, this could lay away for a few years – but who is going to want to wait?

92 points

2010 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavieres

Visually, these 2010s from Jean-Jacques Girard recall another stellar vintage – 2002 – which marked my introduction to these classic examples of well balanced wines of great typicity; across the range these revealed brilliant, gemstone-like ruby tones that were consistently crystalline to the rim. Being based in Savigny for numerous generations, these are where JJ Girard really shines. JJ’s 2010 Lavieres – another lieu dit where this estate consistently leads the way – is yet again absolutely a thrill to engage aromatically. While even lusher on the nose than the Peuillets, this tends more towards black berries and even a suggestion of cassis – yet it’s in no way overripe or cooked. The fruit on the nose is allied to just the right amount of riverbed stones and minerals and all of these wonderfully sappy and earthy tones join on the palate where the very nearly full bodied texture and lingering finish suggest something far greater than “mere” Savigny. As it always is, this is text-book and should not be missed.

93 points


Domaine Lucien Jacob


2010 Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses

Having not experienced the Jacob wines for several vintages, it was good to catch up with this under-the-radar producer again as their bottlings represent fine value and solid quality. This lieu dit – most often attributed to the Bize Domaine – benefitted from a wonderful ruby hue and great clarity right to the rim. Aromatically, this is wonderfully fresh, brimming with red and blue pinot fruit and subtle terroir notes. The palate too is freshly fruited with red berry nuances allied to a medium weight frame, crisp acidity and tannins that are precise and well integrated. This is quite delicious already yet will reward a couple years of down time, too.

89 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Les Cent Vignes

Having not experienced the Jacob wines for several vintages, it was good to catch up with this under-the-radar producer again as their bottlings represent fine value and solid quality. A beautiful ruby robe, crystalline to the rim and quite pure, recalled the David Croix version of this lieu dit. Darker pinot nuances greet the nose here when compared to the preceding and are allied to earthy nuances of mineral and underbrush that all reappear on the classic, taut and linear palate that is grippy and focused. While not as berry infused as some, this offers fine precision and balance with the acidity and earthy components lending style. Unique and pure.

89 points


Domaine Jean-Marc Pavelot


2009 Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Aux Guettes

Within the hamlet of Savigny, there are two superstars – Pavelot routinely the better of the two, depending on lieu dits. For 2009 as well as 2010, this rule continued, unabated. The ruby red robe of this wine is quite impressive and is very nearly deep enough in color to warrant a garnet moniker – impressive right to the rim. Aromatically, this is brimming with extract of black pinot fruit that is allied to Christmas spice and earth components that all reappear on the fabulously full-bodied, seriously packed and structured frame that lasts and lasts on the palate. This is – as always – one of the finest wines of the village and well worth the effort to find. Serious juice.

93 points

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes

Within the hamlet of Savigny, there are two superstars – Pavelot routinely the better of the two, depending on lieu dits. For 2009 as well as 2010, this rule continued, unabated. Here the color is an unquestionably garnet gemstone, with crystalline clarity right to the rim. Again we have an aromatic profile of dark pinot fruit, yet this is not quite as extravagant as the preceding, yet perhaps slightly more transparent with a slightly more terroir influenced nuance of soil and mineral. The palate is also more transparent and offers classic Beaune character of underbrush allied to its berry fruits and spice. This is serious juice and offers terrific concentration as well as buckets of terroir notes.

92 points

Maison Benjamin Leroux


2010 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey

Benjamin, the sharp and very talented director for Comte Armand launched his own negociant business a few years back to allow him to work exclusively with vineyard plots where he is allowed to purchase fruit (as opposed to must or finished wine) and where he is able to exercise at least some control over vineyard care. His deft touch is immediately recognized when eyeing these selections, as the gemstone colors are pristine and crystalline to the rim. The Thorey offers extremely high pitched, red berry fruit dominated aromatics that run from red cherry compote to strawberry, where the fruit also carries over the palate that is full of crunchy acidity and terrific length. This is already a joy to drink and will only get better with some down time. Delicious. And I love this stuff.

92 points

2010 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans

Benjamin, the sharp and very talented director for Comte Armand launched his own negociant business a few years back to allow him to work exclusively with vineyard plots where he is allowed to purchase fruit (as opposed to must or finished wine) and where he is able to exercise at least some control over vineyard care. His deft touch is immediately recognized when eyeing these selections, as the gemstone colors are pristine and crystalline to the rim. Another high pitched aromatic profile of the reddest pinot fruit is allied to slightly more minerality that shows up on the palate as well. Again, though, this is about the purity of fruit and will be very hard to resist young. This is medium bodied and more feminine than the Thorey – by a bit – but the inner mouth perfume makes it every bit as interesting. Love it.

91 points

Domaine Perrot Minot


2010 Morey Saint Denis La Rue de Vergy

It had been since tasting Christophe’s other-worldly 2005s that I had enjoyed an opportunity to visit with this brilliant vigneron, so I relished this chance to taste what has been declared the best vintage yet bottled by this perennial over-achiever. Colors ran from the purest ruby reds in the Vosne offerings to an almost blue-black garnet in the Nuits as well as Grand Crus – striking purity as well as brilliant robes across the range. Aromatically, this is high pitched, sweetly red fruited and offers a purity heretofore not yet experienced on the nose that also carries over to the palate, which is equally pure, silky, tender and very beautifully balanced. This is delicious.

90 points

2010 Vosne Romanee Les Champs Perdrix

It had been since tasting Christophe’s other-worldly 2005s that I had enjoyed an opportunity to visit with this brilliant vigneron, so I relished this chance to taste what has been declared the best vintage yet bottled by this perennial over-achiever. Colors ran from the purest ruby reds in the Vosne offerings to an almost blue-black garnet in the Nuits as well as Grand Crus – striking purity as well as brilliant robes across the range. Another red fruit dominated nose fills the sinuses yet this offering also brings a serious level of terroir spiciness and minerality that announces 2010 transparency. Similarly tender as the Vergy, this offers more complexity with its mineral notes on the palate, as well as more length and overall stuffing. Serious stuff at this level.

90 points

2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts

It had been since tasting Christophe’s other-worldly 2005s that I had enjoyed an opportunity to visit with this brilliant vigneron, so I relished this chance to taste what has been declared the best vintage yet bottled by this perennial over-achiever. Colors ran from the purest ruby reds in the Vosne offerings to an almost blue-black garnet in the Nuits as well as Grand Crus – striking purity as well as brilliant robes across the range. Aromatically, this changed gears and headed towards the blue fruit side of the spectrum, while remaining focused, balanced and pure with its alluring spice notes that all reappeared on the palate, which also offered even more body and grip than the preceding. Balanced, focused and graceful, this wine truly expresses the changes made Chez Perrot Minot. Impressive.

91+ points

2010 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru La Richemone

It had been since tasting Christophe’s other-worldly 2005s that I had enjoyed an opportunity to visit with this brilliant vigneron, so I relished this chance to taste what has been declared the best vintage yet bottled by this perennial over-achiever. Colors ran from the purest ruby reds in the Vosne offerings to an almost blue-black garnet in the Nuits as well as Grand Crus – striking purity as well as brilliant robes across the range. Succulent aromatics of red pinot fruit, perfectly integrated wood spice, and those tell-tale truffle and other somber notes lifted from the glass to showcase a wine of near Grand Cru levels, where the palate follow suit to offer a firm, structured, mineral driven and toasty oak inflected character that is so classically Richemone. This is powerful, and time will be required.

92 points

2010 Charmes Chambertin

It had been since tasting Christophe’s other-worldly 2005s that I had enjoyed an opportunity to visit with this brilliant vigneron, so I relished this chance to taste what has been declared the best vintage yet bottled by this perennial over-achiever. Colors ran from the purest ruby reds in the Vosne offerings to an almost blue-black garnet in the Nuits as well as Grand Crus – striking purity as well as brilliant robes across the range. Tasting this wine alongside its Mazoyeres stable mate was fascinating, as this was classically charming in its feminine character vis-à-vis the Maz. The mineral component in the aromatics here is striking and is allied to highly complex sous-bois notions that are fantastically transparent. Terroir takes center stage here and this wine is miles long, miles deep and yet seems refined and poised. A true Grand Cru in every sense and direction and a wine not to be missed.

94 points

2010 Mazoyeres Chambertin

It had been since tasting Christophe’s other-worldly 2005s that I had enjoyed an opportunity to visit with this brilliant vigneron, so I relished this chance to taste what has been declared the best vintage yet bottled by this perennial over-achiever. Colors ran from the purest ruby reds in the Vosne offerings to an almost blue-black garnet in the Nuits as well as Grand Crus – striking purity as well as brilliant robes across the range. Compared to the Charmes, this is decidedly darker fruited on the nose, with the fruit pushing to the fore whereas the minerality and terroir seems to take the fore with the Charmes. On the palate, this is far more muscular and masculine, with that wild and sauvage nature taking over, with suggestions of roasted meats and game stepping in as well. This is almost untamed vis-à-vis the Charmes, but not at all out of balance. Simply different, but equally a do not miss wine.

94 points

Maison Bertrand Ambroise


2009 Corton Le Rognet

A deep, penetrating and beautiful garnet color supports a deep and crystalline robe right to the rim. Aromatically, this is deeply pitched, with the darker side of the pinot spectrum showing through on the nose, which is very forward and taking center stage to the otherwise earthy nuances of mineral and terroir. The palate too is quite jammy, with plumy black fruits filling practically every crevice of the mouth while the full bodied texture of the wine gives support on the long and powerful finish. This is a wine of power and massive fruit, and the equally massive structure is here for extended down time. Another wine not to miss.

94 points

(Part V – The Event at Chateau de Chassagne Montrachet) –

Domaine Blain Gagnard


2010 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot

Across the range for 2010, colors here offered very pale yellow highlights that were nearly transparent to the rim. Another aspect that ran consistent through the range was a sense of tension to each of these offers; these seemed very tightly wound today. Aromatically, this was reticent, and only after serious coaxing did nuances of tart citrus and a whiff of toast emerge. These characteristics carried over the palate, where the wine was bracing and quite taut, with a finish that opened up a touch more to offer a whiff more complexity and a hint more stuffing.

88 points

2010 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets

Across the range for 2010, colors here offered very pale yellow highlights that were nearly transparent to the rim. Another aspect that ran consistent through the range was a sense of tension to each of these offers; these seemed very tightly wound today. Aromatically, this offered more forward and expressive nuances of orange zest, yet it remained close to the vest, with only hints of floral components and a whiff of toast. The palate too is reserved, with the citrus dominating today, but as the wine unfolded, a bit more weight was evident, suggesting this wine will come around with bottle age.

89 points

Domaine Hubert Lamy


2010 Chassagne Montrachet Le Concis du Champs

Across the range for the 2010, undoubtedly due to factors ranging from Lamy’s cold cellars to the Domaine’s preference for limited or no stirring of the lees, the colors here are very nearly crystal clear; with only the faintest hint of straw yellow. Aromatically, the perfume on this villages wine was singing today. This lieu dit is just below Maltroie, rich in clay and lends itself equally well to both red as well as white Burgundies. The palate too is wonderfully perfumed and pure, focused and medium weight, with all the freshness and body – yet no undue heaviness or oak influence – that signals the Lamy style. Serious stuff at this level.

90 points

2010 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos du Meix

Across the range for the 2010, undoubtedly due to factors ranging from Lamy’s cold cellars to the Domaine’s preference for limited or no stirring of the lees, the colors here are very nearly crystal clear; with only the faintest hint of straw yellow. From a little known 1er cru located across the village from Perrieres, with a limestone, poor, rocky soil, Meix produced a wine of intense depth and amazing structure Chez Lamy for 2010. Aromas and flavors recall spiced stone fruits of apricot and peach allied to floral components. The structure and flavor profile is impressive on this one, and the acidity bodes well for a long and graceful bottle age.

92 points

2010 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere

Across the range for the 2010, undoubtedly due to factors ranging from Lamy’s cold cellars to the Domaine’s preference for limited or no stirring of the lees, the colors here are very nearly crystal clear; with only the faintest hint of straw yellow. From the “sweet-spot” vineyards of Saint Aubin, near to Remilly and Sur Gamay, also based in limestone, this vineyard was planted in 1964 and for 2010 offers fabulous and intense minerally typicity. Additional aromas and flavors recall top flight 1er cru Chassagnes, offering nuances of mandarin oranges while the palate is coated with fabulous texture and a finish that lasts for minutes. This is serious Saint Aubin that will hold its own against wines costing quite a bit more.

92 points


2010 Saint Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly

Across the range for the 2010, undoubtedly due to factors ranging from Lamy’s cold cellars to the Domaine’s preference for limited or no stirring of the lees, the colors here are very nearly crystal clear; with only the faintest hint of straw yellow. From the vineyard planted on the same line as Chassagne Vergers and Puligny Champ Gain that benefits from wonderful exposure and sunshine, Lamy’s Remilly for 2010 offers fabulous intensity of nearly exotic fruits that run from mango to mandarin on both the nose and palate. This is as powerful and juicy as any in the line-up, yet it remains deftly balanced by great grip and the amazing finish is equally balanced and poised. While hard to resist for all the alluring fruit, this will easily handle a decade of down time. Serious juice.

92+ points

Domaine Fernand et Laurent Pillot


2010 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Sentier du Clos

The style Chez F & L Pillot – a relatively high percentage of new oak barrels for fermentation as well as extended barrel age across the range – attributed to pale golden hues for 2010. While certainly not deep in color, these hues were nonetheless more tinted than some – that’s not a nit, it’s merely a note on the house style. Aromatically as well as on the palate, this offered a wonderfully delicious buttery concentration allied to flavors of pears and hints of toasted wood. Medium bodied and round, this will drink well immediately.

88 points

2010 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers

The style Chez F & L Pillot – a relatively high percentage of new oak barrels for fermentation as well as extended barrel age across the range – attributed to pale golden hues for 2010. While certainly not deep in color, these hues were nonetheless more tinted than some – that’s not a nit, it’s merely a note on the house style. Aromatically, this is decidedly spicy, with baking spice notes of clove and allspice allied to the buttery, toasted elements and aspects of apples and citrus. The palate follows suit yet here there is far more focus along with the near full bodied texture and wonderful concentration. Good stuff.

90 points

2010 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot

The style Chez F & L Pillot – a relatively high percentage of new oak barrels for fermentation as well as extended barrel age across the range – attributed to pale golden hues for 2010. While certainly not deep in color, these hues were nonetheless more tinted than some – that’s not a nit, it’s merely a note on the house style. The toasty house style here merely adds to wonderful typicity to include a fabulous array of various stone as well as exotic fruits from the nose to the palate where the acidity focuses all the elements and keeps this very nearly exotic wine well in check. This is very well done and never strays too far off course. Great now, yet will certainly reward a couple years of down time, too.

91 points


2010 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse

The style Chez F & L Pillot – a relatively high percentage of new oak barrels for fermentation as well as extended barrel age across the range – attributed to pale golden hues for 2010. While certainly not deep in color, these hues were nonetheless more tinted than some – that’s not a nit, it’s merely a note on the house style. Conversely to the Morgeot, this is more laid back, even reserved, and only hints at the exotic, with the toasted elements taking a back seat to citrus as well as stone fruits while the palate shows the purest focus thus far with fine grip and terrific focus. This is serious white burg and classically 2010 in style, focus and potential longevity.

91+ points


2010 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes

The style Chez F & L Pillot – a relatively high percentage of new oak barrels for fermentation as well as extended barrel age across the range – attributed to pale golden hues for 2010. While certainly not deep in color, these hues were nonetheless more tinted than some – that’s not a nit, it’s merely a note on the house style. Aromatically, this returns to the most complex levels of assorted and thrilling stone fruits where these elements are allied to sinus filling concentration. All of these elements carry over to the palate, where the wine is practically fat with extract, wonderfully complex and completely focused in its juicy fruit characters and barely a whiff of oak. This is just wonderful. 92 points

Domaine Prieur Brunet


2010 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Embazees

A rather cool, green-gold tint to the hue here suggests a wine of class and age-ability. Prieur Brunet’s vines are located at the top of the hill in Embazees, well drained and are generally harvested at optimum ripeness. Aromatically this is quite floral; citrus infused and offers stone fruits and great persistence. The palate is at once juicy as well as well wonderfully stony, offering richness allied to a nutty component, all of which linger on the impressively medium to full bodied finish. Rare (according to the wine-maker who was present) and wonderfully delicious.

91 points

2010 Batard Montrachet

The color here is medium straw yellow, yet doesn’t cross the line to gold and also appears to have that slightly green tint as the preceding – a wine of class and great age-ability. Aromatically, there is an almost Grand Cru Chablis-like stony minerality here that surrounds and supports layers of honeyed apricots and nutmeg notes along with smoky oak tones and hints of mushrooms. Texturally, this is very creamy, almost buttery, with the exotic qualities from the nose reappearing on the extract rich palate that is sappy and quite forward. There’s a lot of forwardness here already and the almond extract is attractive, but will this make old bones?

93 points

(Part VI – The Event at Tonnellerie Damy) –

Domaine Boyer Martenot


2010 Meursault Les Tillets

Winemaking Chez Boyer Martenot includes extensive lees stirring and multiple rackings, which could explain the slightly hazy tones to the otherwise straw yellow colors here today. Aromatically, this offers an unusually toasted profile and buttery component that combine to mask most of the underlying fruit components. The palate too is quite buttery and while not overtly intrusive, the wood spice and other oak nuances tend to override most of the fruit and terroir nuances. Could come into focus later though as the lingering finish offered good potential.

89? points

2010 Meursault L’Ormeau

Winemaking Chez Boyer Martenot includes extensive lees stirring and multiple rackings, which could explain the slightly hazy tones to the otherwise straw yellow colors here today. By comparison, this wine offered a far more compelling aromatic profile to the Tillets that included layers of minerality, orange zest and a ripeness to the fruit that was quite alluring. On the palate the wine’s fruit is wonderfully ripe but balanced by great acidity. This is all around well structured and focused.

90 points

2010 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres

Winemaking Chez Boyer Martenot includes extensive lees stirring and multiple rackings, which could explain the slightly hazy tones to the otherwise straw yellow colors here today. Aromatically, this wine was ripe to the point of exotic – with very nearly honeyed aspects to the licorice, butter, roasted almonds and pain grille. On the palate too this is almost wildly exotic and even those in attendance split their vote as to the wine’s style (I, for one came down on the side of the traditionalists). This is very modern in style but speaking purely in vinous terms this is quite alluring.

92 points

2010 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres

Winemaking Chez Boyer Martenot includes extensive lees stirring and multiple rackings, which could explain the slightly hazy tones to the otherwise straw yellow colors here today. Again we have an utterly exotic, seemingly late harvest character to the aromatic profile, where ultra ripe aspects of honey, Clementine, and a whiff of orange liqueur are present. On the palate, there’s an almost residual sugar component and again an exotic modern style that had folks scratching their temples. Placed as a ringer in blind tastings, this would rarely be picked as Old World. Purely in vinous terms, however, it’s alluring all the same.

92 points

Leader of the pack for Meursault in 2010!

Domaine Patrick Javillier


2010 Meursault Les Tillets

Patrick Javillier, well educated in enology and a joy to taste with and be around, practices fermentation for his white wines in barrique – the age of which is determined by the pedigree of each lieu dit. The resulting wines are great expressions of their respective terroirs and the colors for 2010 are perfectly pale yellow with brilliant clarity right to their rims. Aromatically, this is just packed with white peach, honeydew and baking spices. The palate is equally delicious (I used that descriptor thrice) and offers all the sappy fruit form the nose allied to hints of minerality and river bed stones. While the terroir notes are certainly here, it’s all about the fruit – and the wine is all the better for it. Lipsmaking.

91 points

2010 Meursault Les Clousots

Patrick Javillier, well educated in enology and a joy to taste with and be around, practices fermentation for his white wines in barrique – the age of which is determined by the pedigree of each lieu dit. The resulting wines are great expressions of their respective terroirs and the colors for 2010 are perfectly pale yellow with brilliant clarity right to their rims. White peach, pear and granny smith apples greet the nose along with wild flowers of every description. While less spicy than the Tillets, this is no less expressive with its floral component offering a unique style. The palate is powerful, every bit as full and rich as one looks for Chez Javillier, and with a finish that’s structure for aging. Wow.

92 points


2010 Meursault Cuvee Tete de Murger

Patrick Javillier, well educated in enology and a joy to taste with and be around, practices fermentation for his white wines in barrique – the age of which is determined by the pedigree of each lieu dit. The resulting wines are great expressions of their respective terroirs and the colors for 2010 are perfectly pale yellow with brilliant clarity right to their rims. A fabulously unique cuvee, born from the blending of Casse-Tetes and les Murgers de Monthelie. Aromatically, this offers minerality to burn, allied to blood oranges, incense and the perfect levels of wood smoke. This palate presence is borderline Grand Cru status with its amazingly structured attack, striking depth of sweet orange marmalade fruit and perfectly balancing acidity that guided this wine down a tightrope to a finish that lingers for three minutes. One of the first wines of the day to stop me in my tracks and declare it a wine truly not to be missed.

94 points

Domaine Remi Jobard


2010 Meursault Les Narvaux

Remi believes in purity – purity of site, purity of fruit and just the right amount of oak to respect the traditions while enhancing the qualities inherent in each plot he tends. And as the green-gold hues across his range for 2010 attest, his attention to purity paid off in some of the most pristine and age-worthy wines of the vintage. A mineral infused aromatic profile wraps itself around the purest expression of orchard fruits – mango, papaya – that all reappear on the sappy and mouth coating as well as delicious palate. The balance between all of the elements is simply wonderful as this wine finishes with focus and fabulous persistence. Delicious.

90 points

2010 Meursault Les Chevalieres

Remi believes in purity – purity of site, purity of fruit and just the right amount of oak to respect the traditions while enhancing the qualities inherent in each plot he tends. And as the green-gold hues across his range for 2010 attest, his attention to purity paid off in some of the most pristine and age-worthy wines of the vintage. By comparison, while retaining the succulent fruit nuances aromatically, this brings another aspect with its citrusy tones. Compared to the Narvaux, the fruit here too is wonderfully dense and mouth-coating, but it’s unique with its decidedly citrus undertones, which are better supported by a touch more acidity. While the Narvaux is – by comparison – showier, this is holding its cards closer to the vest.

90+ points

2010 Meursault 1er Cru Le Poruzot Dessus

Remi believes in purity – purity of site, purity of fruit and just the right amount of oak to respect the traditions while enhancing the qualities inherent in each plot he tends. And as the green-gold hues across his range for 2010 attest, his attention to purity paid off in some of the most pristine and age-worthy wines of the vintage.  Here we have the first signs of wonderful integrated wood smoke that only add to the layers of tropical nuances, blood orange and zesty spiciness. On the palate this is undeniably large-scaled, with a viscous, mouth filling and palate coating texture that brings all the sappy fruit from the aromatics and allies them to racy acidity and a finish that won’t quit. Quite a wine.

92 points


2010 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres

Remi believes in purity – purity of site, purity of fruit and just the right amount of oak to respect the traditions while enhancing the qualities inherent in each plot he tends. And as the green-gold hues across his range for 2010 attest, his attention to purity paid off in some of the most pristine and age-worthy wines of the vintage. Aromatically, layer upon layer of minerality are joined by pear skin and apples to lend to the overall impression of purity that classically honors this terroir. The palate too is wonderfully terroir driven, with the mineral-inflected notes returning, where the body, focus and weight of this wine are all in harmony. This will make old bones, for sure. Very impressive.

93 points

Domaine Francois Mikulski


2010 Meursault

From the label – perhaps better described as the lack of a label – right down to the style of the wines themselves, this is without a doubt one the most original (if not THE most original) Domaines in Meursault. Gazing at the very nearly transparent – virtually colorless to the rim – hues on these 2010s immediately indicates that one is in for a unique experience Chez Mikulski. As wood is considered counter the cause Chez Mikulski, aromatically this wine is strikingly pure green apple on the nose. One must be prepared for the style here: this is about fruit, acidity and a refreshing style that brings the taster back for a second taste. This is the antithesis of exotic; this is racy, crisp and very focused – right to the end.

90 points

2010 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots

From the label – perhaps better described as the lack of a label – right down to the style of the wines themselves, this is without a doubt one the most original (if not THE most original) Domaines in Meursault. Gazing at the very nearly transparent – virtually colorless to the rim – hues on these 2010s immediately indicates that one is in for a unique experience Chez Mikulski. Again, the aromatics grab the sinuses with an inescapable combination of green fruits that is undeniable: pear skins, granny smiths and more. The palate too is strikingly taut, tremendously focused and laser-like and while this is saliva-inducing, this wine will probably benefit from some down time.

90+? points

2010 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres

From the label – perhaps better described as the lack of a label – right down to the style of the wines themselves, this is without a doubt one the most original (if not THE most original) Domaines in Meursault. Gazing at the very nearly transparent – virtually colorless to the rim – hues on these 2010s immediately indicates that one is in for a unique experience Chez Mikulski. Here we have the first signs of a more honeyed aspect to the green fruited nose that also offers hints of almonds – this is Francois’ favorite bottling, yet he declares that 5-7 years is nonetheless required for this be at its optimum. On the palate, this is just as linear today as the others, only hinting at the honey and toasted nuttiness, primarily showing bracing acidity and those tell-tale green apple skins, which are hallmarks of the Domaine. A serious wine for the patient.

92+? points


Domaine Jacques Prieur


2009 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots

Beautiful, deeply colored to the rim, with a color of garnet gemstone; this is perfectly crystalline and shines in the light. Buckets of the most persistent, pristine and perfectly balanced as well as focused red fruits – red plums, jammy strawberry, rainier cherry – are allied in the aromatics to wood smoke and mineral nuance, all of which reappear on the wonderfully sappy and alluring palate that is medium bodied, very forward yet balanced and already a joy to drink. The tannins are virtually invisible and the wine is all the better for it.

92 points

2009 Volnay 1er Cru Champans

Equally impressive visually, with the near garnet hue running right to the rim; this also shimmers in the light – very crystalline. Aromatically, this offers such an array of fruit that it can be described as macerated – yet not at all cooked or stewed – and the fruits also run to the red side of the pinot spectrum, yet where this separates itself from the Santenots is on the palate with its additional structure and slightly firmer style. Each of these is succulent, yet the Champans offers a bit more power and seems to offer more grip, perhaps suggesting the potential for better longevity. 92 points

2009 Meursault 1er Cru Santenots

Visually, this is golden straw yellow, with its hue persistent until it begins to fade slightly to the rim. This indicates a warm vintage but not over-ripe grapes. Aromatically, this runs to the exotic with its juicy-fruit components of mango, mandarin, papaya and other assorted orchard fruits; yet the nose retains its sense of place with a whiff of minerality. The palate too is wonderfully exotic, yet pure and focused by the precise acidity that wraps everything together through the long, tantalizing and lingering finish. This is everything it should be and will make fans on both sides of the pond.

90 points

2009 Meursault Blanc Clos de Mazeray Monopole

Similarly as the Santenots, visually, this is golden straw yellow, with its hue persistent until it begins to fade slightly to the rim. This indicates a warm vintage but not over-ripe grapes. Curiously, this was shown after the Santenots, and while certainly stylish on the nose, with its ripe stone fruits that followed through to an equally ripe and generous palate, overall it paled by comparison to the Santenots. Certainly a good wine, and delicious on its own, just a bit 1 dimensional.

88 points

2009 Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres

Visually, this is light straw yellow in color, persistent to the rim and quite crystalline; suggesting a cooler site or less ripe grapes. Aromatically, this is towards the citrus side of the fruit spectrum, less exotic, and offers suggestions of Meyer lemons, sweet lime and hints of orange – while citrusy the nose is still a touch sweet in nature. On the palate, this is as full bodied and voluptuous as any in the range, with a texture and structure akin to Grand Crus and a finish that builds and builds. This is serious juice in every way and a true do not miss bottling. Great stuff.

94 points

Domaine Bitouzet Prieur


2010 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

As the wine-making Chez Bitouzet Prieur is quite classical, daily pigeage is practiced in vintages where the quality of the grapes is sufficient to allow for such measures to extract maximum color, etc. As such, these 2010s, across the range were some of the most deeply colored of their types – with garnet colors, persistent hues and crystalline robes right to their rims; impressive tones. Aromatically, while there is plenty of red pinot fruit here, this is undeniably about the terroir: buckets of riverbed minerals, sous-bois (underbrush and freshly turned earth) and wet stones – this is a classic. The flavor profile is far less forward than, say the Pousse style – and the wine is all the better for it. This is positively inverted today vis-à-vis some of its neighbors, but if the 1999 version is any indicator, this will be a great wine in years to come.

90+? points

2010 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes

As the wine-making Chez Bitouzet Prieur is quite classical, daily pigeage is practiced in vintages where the quality of the grapes is sufficient to allow for such measures to extract maximum color, etc. As such, these 2010s, across the range were some of the most deeply colored of their types – with garnet colors, persistent hues and crystalline robes right to their rims; impressive tones. Aromatically, this offers a slightly more “agreeable” red fruit tinged profile that suggests plum skin and cranberry allied to the classic minerality that makes not only the site what it is, but likewise indicates one is engaging a wine Chez Bitouzet Prieur. On the palate, this is silky and alluring, medium in weight and classically flavored, yet is also introverted and in need of some down time. This promises great things to come.

91+? points


2010 Volnay 1er Cru Pitures

As the wine-making Chez Bitouzet Prieur is quite classical, daily pigeage is practiced in vintages where the quality of the grapes is sufficient to allow for such measures to extract maximum color, etc. As such, these 2010s, across the range were some of the most deeply colored of their types – with garnet colors, persistent hues and crystalline robes right to their rims; impressive tones. Aromatically – interestingly – this was the most forward of the 1ers today and offered perfumed as well as sweet red pinot fruit that took center stage over the minerality and earthier characteristics. The palate was pure Pitures, however; offering all the power, density and structure one expects, allied to the fruit, tannin and wonderfully long finish that all bode very well for a long and graceful evolution. Very large-scaled wine.

92+? points


Domaine de Montille


2009 Volnay 1er Cru Carelles

Beautiful ruby red robe, persistent to the rim and quite pure – crystalline hue. Aromatically, this offers classic complexity, where the persistent and room filling red and blue pinot fruits of jammy strawberry and plums are allied to precise minerality. These components carry over to the palate, where the wine is medium weight, yet delicate, deeply fruited yet perfectly balanced, persistent yet somehow so complex as to be introverted, and where the finish lasts a full three minutes. This is one of the most delicate and feminine wines of the day, with an inner-mouth perfume that is so alluring. Wonderful and classy.

91 points


2009 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

Another beautiful ruby red robe, persistent to the rim and quite pure – crystalline hue. Aromatically, this quite different from the Carelles, offering buckets of the darkest pinot fruits – black berries of every type – all allied to truffle, wood smoke and stones. The palate too is pure rocky minerality and the display of black fruit from the nose is swallowed up in the middle of this wine’s outstanding display of pure terroir. This is a seriously earth driven beauty that is textbook and worth a serious look.

93 points

(Part VII– The Event at Chateau de Pommard) –

Domaine Billard Gonnet

2009 Pommard 1er Cru Pezerolles

From some of the oldest parcels in their respective lieu dits, tended as they have been for generations towards the production of true vins de garde, these 2009s reflected hues that were very nearly opaque; offering garnet hues that were deeply tinted right the rims – impressive colors. Aromatically, this offers dark berry compote of jammy black cherry allied to earthy notes of soil and sous-bois, all of which appear on the surprisingly forward palate impression that almost covers the impressive tannic spine. Billard never bottles shy wines, and this is no exception, but the fruit on this one actually renders the Pez for 09 very nearly forward.

90 points

2009 Pommard 1er Cru Clos de Verger

From some of the oldest parcels in their respective lieu dits, tended as they have been for generations towards the production of true vins de garde, these 2009s reflected hues that were very nearly opaque; offering garnet hues that were deeply tinted right the rims – impressive colors. Here the aromatics are even more pronounced, offering similar dark pinot nuances of plum, plum skin and black berry allied to minerals and earthy tones that reappear on the massive, structured, brooding and classically Billard palate. When one seeks the definition of not only old-school Burgundy, but likewise a lesson in the Billard style, this is a great place to start: large scaled and brooding in every way.

92 points

2009 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens Bas

From some of the oldest parcels in their respective lieu dits, tended as they have been for generations towards the production of true vins de garde, these 2009s reflected hues that were very nearly opaque; offering garnet hues that were deeply tinted right the rims – impressive colors. In comparison to the previous wines, aromatically, this is decidedly more towards the red pinot side of the spectrum, offering an alluring concoction of pure red cherries and plums that are allied to the most intense minerality. These pronounced aspects reappear on the palate, where the wine is equally full bodied, massively structured and so large scaled as to be positively introverted today. This will require the better part of a decade to unwind – and will reward same. Intense and not to be missed.

94 points


Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils


2009 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers

As a side note, it was interesting to see Ghislaine Barthod flying solo at the Boillot booth during the GJDB, as her husband Louis Boillot was otherwise occupied, tending to the bottling of his 2010s. The Fremiers showcased a brilliant ruby gemstone color, persistent to the rim with a wonderfully crystalline robe. Aromatically, this is positively glowing; offering the full spectrum of red fruits: red cherry, macerated strawberry, red raspberry and more – the red pinot fruit here is just delicious. On the palate, this sweetness continues and is allied to a very well balanced and graceful wine, where it’s all about fruit and deliciousness – and the wine is all the better for it. This never pushes the envelope of sur maturite, however, as the fruit is balanced by the wine’s pure acidity and freshness. Wonderful and a joy to taste.

91 points

2009 Pommard 1er Cru Les Croix Noires

As a side note, it was interesting to see Ghislaine Barthod flying solo at the Boillot booth during the GJDB, as her husband Louis Boillot was otherwise occupied, tending to the bottling of his 2010s. The Croix Noires too showcased a brilliant ruby gemstone color, persistent to the rim with a wonderfully crystalline robe. Aromatically, this is effusively juicy, with its black and blue pinot fruit filling the sinus to a point of an almost perfumed concoction that recalls the femininity of some of Ghislaine’s wines. The palate too is ever so elegant, yet medium bodied, as the wine is at once graceful yet seemingly powerful with its punchy fruit and 3 minute finish. This is one of the most delicious wines in the room.

92 points

Domaine Coste-Caumartin


2010 Pommard Les Vignots

Visually, this is brilliantly crystalline, with a pure, ruby red robe that is persistent to the rim. Aromatically, this offers a cornucopia of fruits, from red cherries to plums to freshly picked and macerating strawberries, all allied to wonderfully pure and complex minerality that announces fabulous transparency. The palate too offers wonderful transparency with its layers of minerality that support and lift the mostly black pinot fruit and firm but not overly intrusive tannins. This will require some down time and 5 years will be rewarded. Serious villages wine.

90 points

2010 Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers

Similarly crystalline visually, with a pure robe, yet this wine is decidedly darker in hue, with an almost blue-black, garnet gemstone hue to its persistent robe. Aromatically, this is wonderfully perfumed and offers buckets of jammy red fruits that cover the range, with the macerated qualities and red plum skins dominating. The palate too is wonderfully pure of fruit, with the massive tannic spine enveloping everything here, suggesting a decade or more of cellar time is warranted. While the fruit is generous, the tannins and structure are unquestionably old school – in the best sense of that term.

91 points

2010 Pommard 1er Cru Le Clos des Boucherottes

As with the Fremiers, crystalline visually, with a pure robe, and decidedly dark in hue, with an almost blue-black, garnet gemstone hue to its persistent robe. Another aromatic profile dominated by red fruits, plum skins and jammy red strawberries, where the nearly perfumed aspect of the red pinot fruit dominates the nose but is allied to a nice dose of baking spice; all of which when combined give an impression of sweetness and even delicacy that is decidedly alluring. On the palate, this is classically structured with its solid tannins and medium bodied frame, yet the sap and balance here combine to make this wine the most charming of the bunch. This very nearly seems already enjoyable, but it’s easy to see that years of downtime will be rewarded.

92+ points

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