2012 Rippon “Rippon Mature Vines” Pinot Noir – Phenomenal Old-Vine Beauty

 

Where The Rippon Magic Happens

 

I first began drinking these phenomenal Pinots with the early 2000s, earning the chance to work directly with the estate a couple years ago with a small release of their 2010s and sensational 2003s. My adoration is well known to friends, family and colleagues alike, with the Wine Advocate on record as well, referring to Nick’s wines as “Pinot Noirs that rekindled memories of those glorious Burgundy 2005’s”. You’ll be as thrilled as I am to hear that Nick’s most well-priced treasure – the 2012 Rippon “Rippon Mature Vines” – has finally landed in the States – ready for your immediate, hedonistic enjoyment!

The site which would eventually become known as Rippon was first planted to 25 various varietals during the 1970s by its founder, Rolfe Mills. Rolfe had spent time in the Douro Valley during the 1940s and the site of schist, rich in foliated mica and quartzite, on his land in Central Otago sparked a great curiosity. Rolfe began experimenting with his soils, isolating a parcel on the western board of Roy’s Bay, Lake Wanaka.

This ancient parcel is Rippon’s north-facing escarpment, and it forms the meeting point of terminal moraines and coarse gravels, all based in schist, where Central Otago’s earliest vines were planted. Rippon’s Mature Vines cuvee is issued from all of the fully developed Pinot vines growing in this expansive parcel. This is where it all began for Rippon, and the fruit of the vine from this parcel bears witness to the perfectionist style Nick (and his father Rolfe before him) is renowned for.

2012 “Rippon Mature Vines”

For those new to these pages, I’d like to take the time to remind folks how vital Nick’s training has been to the continuity of these world class Pinot Noirs. Not only are these the oldest plantings in the region, but they are tended by a man who spent his formative years working the soil and terroirs of Burgundy; he knew how vital his understanding of such things would be. To that end, Nick tenured with de Villaine (Domaine de la Romanée Conti) , and spent time with Jean-Jacques Confuron, Lucien Jacob, Alain Meunier, Nicolas Potel and Domaine de la Vougeraie as well. His are truly the wines of a master craftsman.

 

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Thibault Liger-Belair – Making Monumental Moulin-A-Vents!

thibault-liger-belair

Burgundy, the Cote D’Or. For many, this is the place where it all leads. We begin our vinous journey somewhere else – Bordeaux, Cali Cabs, Italy, anywhere else – but all roads lead to Burgundy. It’s a confusing, confounding, maddening, soul satisfying journey. You’ll spend thousands of hours and even more dollars figuring out the players and the plots, and then, maybe (if you’re lucky) you’ll find nirvana. Generations of men and women dedicate their lives to these nearly desolate hills along a mere 35 mile stretch of vineyards where Pinot and Chardonnay reign supreme.

So why in the name of the Cistercians would anyone now turn to the hillsides of Beaujolais? Why look to places such as Moulin-A-Vent for inspiration? Simply put, the 10 Grand Cru vineyards of Beaujolais – with vineyards as old as 60 to 80 years of age – offer consumers stunning complexity (for absurdly low prices) when handled by a winemaker as deft as Thibault.

I tasted each of Thibault’s individual Crus on two separate occasions last year, more impressed as the wines gained structure in the bottle. These are vinified in the same manner as his Premierthibault-liger-belair-moulin-a-vent and Grand Cru Burgundies – no carbonic maceration for Thibault – and the results are chart topping numbers (year in, year out!) It’s time, folks; discover what every critic has been raving about…

His 2011s are available here

 

Domaine Christian Serafin – A Father’s Perseverance Leads to a Domaine’s Greatest Achievements

 

Where vintage 2010 was “enormously pleasing”!

Where vintage 2010 was “enormously pleasing”!

Tales of perseverance, strife and hardship often lend insight to the character of a wine-maker as well as the wines produced as a result of their steadfastness. One tale of immense perseverance is that of a Polish immigrant named Stanislaus Serafin, who in the late 1930s settled in the village of Gevrey Chambertin with his wife. French immigration laws of the day precluded Serafin from practicing his trade as a skilled woodworker, affording him but two choices: the mines or the fields. Fortuitously, Stanislaus would elect for agricultural work, learning the art of the vine in his own way.

 

World War II would interrupt Serafin’s work as a vigneron however, as Stanislaus would enlist in the Polish Independent Highland Rifle Brigade in 1940. Soon after enlistment, he would land in Norway, only to have his Brigade withdrawn again to France by the Allies to defend the Bretagne Peninsula. After the Armistice signing in June of 1940, Serafin’s Brigade would be disbanded and its members relocated throughout Europe. Stanislaus, however, had Gevrey on his mind.

 

Borrowing a motorcycle, Serafin hit the road for Paris. From Paris, he continued on to Dijon; his home, family and vines in Gevrey on his mind. However, just short of his destination, he would be captured and delivered to Frankfurt – where he would spend the next five years of his life. Not until the end of the War in 1945 would Stanislaus Serafin finally return to Gevrey, where his son – born in 1940 – would greet him for the first time.

 

Stanislaus’ first role as vigneron would come as the result of a friendship established with an Italian immigrant – Livera – who had recently become the owner of a Domaine located in Gevrey. Serafin benefitted from the guidance of other vignerons in the village as he worked towards becoming a self-taught wine-maker, and tending Livera’s vines proved the perfect opportunity for the formation of Domaine Serafin.

 

Livera’s son-in-law – a real estate lawyer – assisted Serafin in the acquisition of parcels of land, which had become available at quite reasonable rates after the war due to abandonment, etc. Through these land acquisitions, Stanislaus pieced together what today is known as Domaine Serafin, his son Christian joining him in 1957. Throughout the late 50s and into the 1960s, together they built the house on the property as well as the cave, which is located just below the 1er Cru vineyard of Cazetiers in Gevrey – Christian himself the one who laid the stonework.

 

The wine-making today reflects the father’s meticulous attention to detail in the vineyards – with viticulture being completely organic – while also mirroring the son’s passion for fantastically complex, full bodied wines – Christian incorporates 100% new oak for the 1er Crus, the Vieilles Vignes cuvees as well as the Grand Cru. And while the Domaine only offers two generations worth of history, the results have long been recognized, as evidenced by placements at many of France’s 3-star restaurants. And considering the praise bestowed on the Domaine by international critics from Parker to Burghound, it’s accurate to classify Domaine Serafin among the elite of today’s producers.

 

In particular, it’s worth noting Burghound’s comments regarding his most recent visit Chez Serafin:

 

“I was quite honestly shocked when the normally laconic Christian Serafin, who I promise you is simply never given to hyperbole and has seen some 40+ vintages in his career, announced that 2010 “should be a great vintage. It has everything it needs to be superb.””

 

These are wines well worth the search, wines I personally collect and share – the ’10s are drinking beautifully as of summer 2014 (the date of my latest update).

 

Daniel Barraud – “The King of Maconnais”

For four vintages now, I’ve been singing the praises of not only the man himself, but of every single bottle of wine that emerges from the cellars of this incredible white wine producer in the southern reaches of Burgundy.  Located in the southern Burgundian region known as the Maconnais, just a short drive south of the Cote D’Or, Daniel Barraud’s cellars can be found in the stunning village of Vergisson.  Nestled in the valley between the most massive set of limestone cliffs you’ve ever encountered, the village of Vergisson is home to the most impressive, concentrated, ageworthy and, believe it or not, undervalued white Burgundies of our time.

Daniel Barruad has been quietly and humbly bottling the most magnificent and sublime creations from the Chardonnay grape for more than two decades.  The world began to take notice, however, just 10 years ago, when a now-famous wine writer began to expose these treasures to our eager taste-buds.  That wine writer was none other than our beloved BURGHOUND, and he single-handedly crowned this genius of Vergisson “the finest growers in all of the Maconnais”

The rest, as we say, has been history.

I first began to offer a very small portion of these awesome specimens to my white Burgundy fanatics back with the 2003 vintage.  Those who bought and have subsequently tasted those powerful yet harmoniously balanced beauties have never missed a single additional offer.  These are simply too good to pass up!  And with each passing vintage, as if to show us that perfection grows with time, Daniel just keeps getting better.

This vintage, with the 2006s, once again, BURGHOUND has paid a visit to the master of the Maconnais.  I do not need to tell you the results.  Once again, like a fine Swiss timepiece, Daniel Barraud has performed with perfection.  The allocations, as always, will be small, but the quality, without doubt, is something you’ll not want to miss.

It is with extreme pride, and with great joy, that I bring to all of you – and to little M’s cellar as well (for her birth year is this wonderful 2006) – these staggering 2006s from Daniel Barraud.  Remember the words from BURGHOUND, “his 2006s deserve to be in your cellars”.

from BURGHOUND, regarding Daniel Barraud, after the cellar visit to taste and report on the 2006s:

“I have said this many times but it’s worth repeating: Daniel Barraud is without question one of the finest growers in all of the Maconnais and there is a credible argument to be made that his remarkable consistency vaults him right to the very top of the list. Yes, there are other fine growers who sometimes make wines equal to those of Barraud but this man almost never misses. And as the scores and reviews suggest, both his 2005s and 2006s deserve to be in your cellars.”
                — BURGHOUND, Issue October 2007

for details regarding current availability, to include regions and pricing, please contact me at the shop…

All the best in wine and life,

Christopher Massie
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommelier
713-524-9144
2439 Times BLVD
Houston, TX 77005
chambertin@sbcglobal.net

Twenty Four and At the Door – My Afternoon at DRC

My wife and I tucked our daughter into bed last night, our evening’s ritual resulting in our collapsing on the couch as we gathered our reading materials and flipped a coin to select our delivery menu for dinner.  We wouldn’t change our routine for the world, for these are the times in our life that are most precious to us, these are the years we cling to as we watch our little M becoming her own self.  We elected Chinese take out on this Thursday night, my wife settled in to her chic-lit novel and I re-engaged my new, most favorite book – the book my wife bought me for Valentine’s Day – a book by Alice Feiring.

When I read the pages of Feiring’s book I experience something truly surreal.  I have traveled so many of the exact same roads, met so many of the exact same people, tasted so many of the exact same wines – and shouted from so many of the exact same mountain tops.  So many times my writings to the few who read my newsletters and blogs have contained the same passionate expletives concerning the direction of wine and the business that I elected as my career path more than 25 years ago.  When I read this woman’s words, I can very nearly literally imagine myself in a balloon, floating above her as she stands in these vineyards and as she tastes wines and as she shakes her head in front of the vultures of the commercial wine industry.

I read with great glee into the wee hours of the morning on this particular Thursday night, as the clock in the kitchen rang mid-night, as the next chapter beckoned me.  My vinous soul-mate had now captured me for at least another half hour as she ushered me into the story of her relationship with yet another of my heros: Becky Wasserman.  Any person who has ever known me is keenly aware of my affection for the Queen of Burgundy.  I’ve written of The Woman and her wines for many years, publicly offering my thoughts with the launching of my blogs at the start of this year.

It was Becky’s wines, and those of Kermit Lynch, that fostered in my palate, at the ripe old age of nearly 18, a never-to-die love of the juice of Burgundy.  It would be those precious wines that would find me saving every extra dime I could muster to sponsor my more than a dozen trips to the Cote D’Or over my career.  So passionate for the wines from Gevrey to Santenay had Becky unknowingly made me that I found myself spending 2 harvests in Pernand Vergelesses just to understand this land’s terroir even better.  For all my time here, the gracious Paul Cadieu presented me with a framed diploma, something I’m proud to hang on my wall, even if few understand its merit.  So one may understand that reading the pages, discovering that Wasserman and Feiring are friends, well, it gave me joy – and great hope for my future.

Reading those pages also brought back the glorious April of 1990.  I was working for one of the giants of the liquor industry, finding my footing, and the company paying my salary was a major client of Wilson Daniels.  Just prior to that April, over the Christmas holiday preceding, I had sold so much wine for the company – Burgundy to be precise, thank you – that I had found myself in the company of one Mr. Haas, the son of the owner of yet another powerful Burgundy import company, this one called Vineyard Brands.  I had familiarized myself with “lucky’s” brands – Gouges, Mongeard-Mugneret, and others – and had been selling them to my customers in a frenzy.

Young Haas and his side kick approached me in the wine section of this rather imposing liquor store where I was performing my magic and suggested I consider a trip to visit their producers.  The seed was planted, I would not be deterred, I was off to Burgundy; the Mother Land was beckoning.  I emptied my paltry savings account, with absolutely zero regard for how I would pay rent upon my return (WOULD I return?), accepted the bargain that came from my then-Mother-In-Law that allowed for us to use her frequent flier miles, and away I went.  Burgundy, here I come…

I spent a full week in Burgundy on that trip, only wasting enough time in Paris to land, find a bus to the rental car location and hit the Autoroute.  Contrary to what may seem obvious based on my town of current residence, I am not a big city fan, I prefer the country, so the quicker I could escape Paris, the better.  Besides, I had spent the time on the flight memorizing the map of the Cote D’Or so I wanted to test my skills.  Would I be able to recall, without looking, the Villages as we made our way down the R.N. 74?  My travel companions, all 3, were not nearly the Burg-heads as I, yet I remained steadfast in my resolve; this was MY trip.  Burgundy is our ONLY mission.

I visited as many of the Vineyard Brands’ estates as one could possibly fit into one week’s itinerary.  Literally a dozen rolls of film, perhaps more, were exhausted, and I remember to this day the nearly knock down fight I had with my now-ex when we split; the photos of that trip and the couch were mine!  We visited the 8 fingered Theirry Matrot, finger-less from rose trimming with his wife, if I translated him properly.  And there was the trip to the gorgeous Chateau in the Cote de Beaune with its ivy covered cellar walls and limestone entrance.  Probably the most memorable, though I couldn’t have known it at the time, was the meeting with the Father himself, Henri Gouges.  This meeting was only a few years before his death and the personal attention he gave me on that day, allowing me a tasting of his wines from my birth year – 1966 – is one etched into the deepest corners of my mind.  So many others were so very generous to me that week, exposing my mind and palate to the riches of this land I continue to adore.  But it would be a late arrival to one stop – and the subsequent cancelled meeting – that would change my life forever.

In Burgundy, particular to this region and more so than any other I’ve visited in France, punctuality is demanded; not required, demanded.  I arrived half an hour late for a particular appointment one afternoon that April to find my scheduled host departed.  Deflated but undeterred, I decided to head to Vosne Romanee to try my luck.  We had no appointment, but I knew some names.

In Vosne Romanee proper, the tiny little Village nestled at the base of some of the most sought after vineyard parcels in all of Burgundy – if not the world – there is an address of one Aubert de Villaine.  Many a story has been told of this man’s famous history, of his family’s estate known as Domaine de la Romanee Conti, most tales certainly more glowing and illuminating than one I could dare to offer.  Amazingly, however, as one reads tales of the history of this Domaine producing the much coveted $10,000 bottle of wine, there are precious few collections that include personal photographs of the cellar and chais.  As yours truly waited outside for de Villaine to authenticate my credentials, such a lack of photographic evidence would not be this visitor’s err.

I had knocked at the door on this glorious day in April of 1990 and de Villaine himself, quite unusually, had come to see who was calling.  In my broken French I explained that I worked for a client of Wilson Daniels, naming my employer of the time, and asked if per chance we could have a visit.  Explaining that the Domaine took no visitors without express pre-arranged itineraries, but with a gentlemanly offer to check his cellar master’s availability (in perfect, almost British-like English) de Villaine asked us to wait, leaving us momentarily.  My travel companion, the one burdened with photo-taking responsibilities, went to work. 

The front of the building was covered to the second floor window with the most pristine and well kept budding red roses that I had yet to experience.  Rounding the back side of the house, we gazed into the courtyard at what seemed so innocent.  This was the entrance to the chais itself; the entrance to the barrel room housing finished bottles and resting barrels of Romanee Conti in Francois Freres oak barrels at nearly $7,000 per bottle at that time.  It was all so quaint and unassuming; a yellow garden hose not quite rolled all the way in, little white flowers just in bloom at the entrance to the cellar itself.  Yet everything, including the pebbled drive was immaculate.  Is this really happening?  I am really here?

De Villaine came round to find us, smiling, almost jovial, thanking us for being at the property.  My initial reaction was one of grief.  I just knew we were going to be escorted out with only photos to show for our daring decent on this dynasty.  “Come with me”, he said instead, and we were escorted down the stairs into the cellars of the most remarkable Domaine in all of Burgundy.  The cellar master smiled, grabbed the wine thief and my mind floated away.

I was not even 25 years old in that moment in time yet my palate was as alive and precise as it has ever been.  I was tasting from barrel the 1988s and my amateur tasting notes from those memorable days, to this day kept in a file drawer with so many others I’ve collected over time, contain vernacular that include words we all come to recognize when in the presence of true greatness.  My photo-taking travel companion, Marcy, shot one last photo on that day, God bless her, one that remains today thumb-tacked above my computer.  As we finished our mind numbing affair on that glorious afternoon, just before exiting the chais I was photographed with my hand resting upon a perfect barrel of Romanee Conti.  My eyes are just slightly glazed over, my circa-1980’s horn-rimmed glasses riding high on my nose, my Elvis hair-do in perfect form.

I had done the DRC. 

I had done it; and the proof in pictures and on my palate was forever a part of my life.

All the best in wine and life,

Christopher Massie
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommelier
713-524-9144
2439 Times BLVD
Houston, TX 77005

Domaine Denis Mortet – Describing a Master…

Laurence et Arnaud Mortet (Courtesy domaine-denis-mortet.fr)

 

The story of Domaine Denis Mortet is not a long one. It does not begin in some 19th century castle in the ruins of an old family vineyard. And it continues today only because of the will of one very strong widow. And an incredible son…

Clive Coates MW, in his book entitled Cote D’Or, chronicled the Mortet story in a Domaine Profile. That Profile told us all the first tale of Mortet. Clive only produced his “Domaine Profiles” on the very best Domaines for that book. By limiting these reports to the top 60 or so Domaines in all of Burgundy – out of the thousands in existence – Clive set out to establish a “hit list” of the most desirable Domaines of our time. That list still stands as a guide for serious Burgundy connoisseurs in search of the very best.

Domaine Mortet began with 1ha of vines, owned by Denis Mortet’s father, Charles. Charles had no interest in the wine business, so he left the vines to be farmed by others until 1977 when Denis came to work with him at the age of 21. When Denis’ brother joined the team later, in 1982, a company was formed. From the time Denis joined his father until 1982, Denis had worked to increase the family holdings through rental agreements and small purchases. So, by 1982, the family company now had grown to include a total of 8ha, just about 18 acres and by 1984, they were bottling on their own.

Now, while the company may have been young, Denis Mortet had set about to secure contracts on vineyards which were quite old. Of that he was very proud. Denis was an incredible perfectionist – something that would finally, many say, be his undoing. He also went about learning the ways of wine-making from Henri Jayer, of whom Clive wrote, “The history of present-day Burgundy could not be written without him.” Indeed, Mortet knew exactly where he was going!

Domaine Denis Mortet was first exported in 1984 and by 1985, Clive Coates first tasted and reported on them. A star was born! All Denis needed was more land.

His wish came true. Around 1993 or so, a famous land owner, with parcels in some of the most prestigious Crus in Burgundy decided to retire. His name was Guyot and he had watched Denis for a few years, becoming more and more impressed with the care Denis took in the vineyards and the incredible wines coming out of the cellars. He asked Denis if Denis would like to take over the Guyot estate. With one gesture, the Domaine Denis Mortet became what we see today – nearly 30 acres.

Clive Coates described Denis Mortet, saying,

“Denis Mortet is a man of passion as well as perfectionism. Touring round his vineyard parcels shows quite plainly his commitment. You feel he knows every single vine personally. And the wines, full, generous, multi-dimensional, rich and expansive, have a lot more to them than most. This is a splendid domaine. And the wines are getting better and better.”
Clive Coates, MW, Cote D’Or, 1997

further, Remington Norman, in his book on Burgundy, added,

“The quality of the wines is remarkable. From the first skirmish with the Bourgogne Rouge, it is clear that Denis knows the technical skills of wine-making and has its art at his fingertips. The fact that he works his 8ha mostly alone makes the achievement the more extraordinary. These wines are among the best in the commune and would easily earn their place in a cellar of fine red Burgundy.”
Remington Norman, The Great Domaines of Burgundy, 1993

more recently, Bruce Sanderson of the Wine Spectator added,

“Mortet had become one of Burgundy’s stars in the 14 years since he established Domaine Denis Mortet, focusing on single vineyard wines from 28.5 acres of small plots he owned in the Côte d’Or. Dozens of his wines earned rave reviews, including a Clos de Vougeot 1996 that scored 99 points on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale and a Chambertin 1998 that scored 98.”
Bruce Sanderson, reporting in the Wine Spectator

finally, Burghound considered Denis,

“Nothing if not intense and he’s an open book when it comes to his wines as he loves to explain every aspect, and in detail, from bud break to the bottle. While it sometimes seems that Mortet is in search of the proverbial magic bullet to make his wines even better, very real progress is being made here even if it isn’t exactly in a straight line…And speaking of impressed, both vintages here are excellent but the 2005s should be excellent.”
Burghound – Allen Meadows

I suppose not a lot more could be added by this author except to say that the wine world truly lost a master when, last January 2006, Denis tragically passed away. His son, Arnaud, had been working alongside the master for two full vintages to include the brilliant 2005s. Denis’ wife, too, had been in the cellars and it is her strong will and faith that have lifted the Domaine and kept the work of her late husband alive for us all to continue to enjoy.

I trust you’ll find this offer comes to you with much respect for this family and their incredible – though short – and famous history…

For more information regarding currently available selections, please visit:

http://www.jjbuckley.com/search/c~0~st~denis%20mortet<<<<

 

All the best in wine and life!
Christopher

Lafarge – “One of the trinity of supreme Volnay producers”

Most of my closest clients and certainly my friends are well aware that I began in the Burgundy business as a lad. It was in 1984 that I experienced my first round of professional Burgundy tastings and within those first moments in time were the wines imported by Becky Wasserman. I had casually tasted wines from Burgundy previous to that time, but it would be that inaugural meeting with Wasserman that would set my palate on its course. So incredibly amazed by those wines was I that I found myself, as I do to this very day, using those wines as a guide stick by which all other Burgundies are measured.

One such estate in that tasting was the Domaine Lafarge. Mr. Lafarge himself was present; silent, but present. His brooding demeanor, straight white hair and striking blue eyes immediately announced that you were in the presence of a man of very few words. This was a man of great intensity, serious about his family’s work. His grand-father and father before him were the Mayor of his wine village of Volnay and now the current Lafarge, too, held this revered title. This man is serious about Volnay, and it shows. He answers your questions quickly and directly, and his wines are considered the best in this hallowed village.

From his parcels within Volnay we have some of the very oldest vineyards planted in the entire Cote de Beaune. Michel Lafarge’s family began as laborers in the 1800s and first acquired a piece of their own land in 1855. From that first planting, the Lafarge family acquired additional plots throughout the village in 1900, to be followed by Beaune vineyards in the 1950s. While the vineyard plots have been replanted over time, since the mid-1960s, when Michel’s father died, the Domaine has focused greatly on preserving the oldest vines as possible. In fact, the wine this estate labels as Vendanges Selectionnees is produced from vines planted in the 1940s.

I could go on and on about this estate, and if you ever engage me over an opened bottle from Michel, I will. But today, to keep things moving along, I’d like to share with all of you the words from the “experts” out there:

from Cote D’Or, A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy by Clive Coats, M.W.:

     “For an example of the finest red Burgundy that is fragrant and feminine, yet intense and long lasting, you need look no further than the wines of Domaine Michel Lafarge. Lafarge and his ancestors have been making wine in the village since at least the French Revolution, almost certainly earlier. Lafarge and his Father and Grandfather have been mayors of the village and Henri Lafarge, Michel’s Father, was additionally regisseur of the Hospices de Beaune. So there is a sense of family tradition and communal responsibility here….Lafarge is part of the continuing history of Volnay, a history which has had the production of fine Burgundy as its raison d’etre since the Middle Ages.”
     — Clive Coates, MW

from Burgundy, A Comprehensive Guide…by Robert Parker:

     “Michel Lafarge, a modest and intelligent man, makes it a point to taste not only his neighbor’s wines, but also as many of the wines of the world as possible. He can produce some of the most stylish, finesse-filled wines of the entire village of Volnay….His top wines are his gorgeous Volnay Clos des Chenes, Beaune les Greves, and Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs.”
     — Robert Parker

from Making Sense of Burgundy by Matt Kramer:

     “One of the trinity of supreme Volnay producers, along with d’Angerville and Pousse d’Or. Wonderfully rich, intense wines of a style equal to, but different from, either Pousse d’Or or d’Angerville. Compare Lafarge’s Clos de Chateau des Ducs with d’Angerville’s Clos des Ducs and you’ll see it instantly. The structure of one is heavily timbered, the other is spiderweb-gossamer. Both are awe-inspiring. The Lafarge Clos des Chenes is about as good as this vineyard gets; also there is superb commune-level Volnay.”
     — Matt Kramer

For more detailed tastings notes and availability sign up for my weekly emails at:

http://cepagenoir.com/?a=contact.

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http://cepagenoir.blogspot.com/

All the best!
Christopher Massie
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommeliere