Where perfection was bottled for vintage 2010.
Having now sampled roughly 300 examples from the 2010 vintage in Burgundy – most during my recent tour of the region to attend the Grand Jours de Bourgogne 2012 – it is unequivocally clear: 2010 is the greatest modern vintage for Burgundy I’ve personally encountered. In my first report on this vintage, I wrote:
Having visited Burgundy more than two dozen times since first stepping foot in these respected vineyards in the 1980s, I have personally experienced many of this generation’s “greatest vintages ever produced” – first hand. Sampling literally thousands of the Cote D’Or’s singular examples, I have compiled volumes of notes spanning more than 25 years. During this span since the 1980s, I have tasted, written about and purchased no less than a half dozen vintages that could have been (and were) declared a perfect vintage (and for what it’s worth, I even worked the harvest for two of these stellar vintages, including 1990). Moreover, I’ve also experienced at least that many additional harvests where the vignerons and press were at odds with one another over declaring those vintage worthy of the “perfection” moniker. And then there comes a vintage such as 2010. Critics, wine-makers, consumers – it appears EVERYONE is beating a path to the nearest outlet for an opportunity to taste and order these wines. The wines of 2010 – and I’m primarily focusing on several of the reds in this report, yet the whites are equally superb – at this point in their evolution, outshine the 1985s, and 1989s. They outshine the 1990s, and 1993s, the 1995s, 1996s and 1999s. These 2010s outperform the 2002s, 2003s, the 2005s (yes, even the great 05s), as well as any vintage since those world-stopping efforts. In short, there simply isn’t a vintage in modern history that compares or competes with the 2010s.
And today, as I publish part I of this vintage round up, I stand by my initial summary. If you haven’t yet lined up your allocations – or if you don’t have a friend in the business – you might want to consider getting your tail off the sidelines!
GJDB Tasting Notes (Part I – The event at Chateau du Clos de Vougeot) –
Domaine d’Ardhuy:
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru les Chaumes
Perfect clarity to the ruby color, medium opaque to the rim. Delicate, yet persistent aromatics include black pinot fruit married to precise minerality and sweet spice. The balance on the palate between the wood, acidity and lingering fruit is impressive.
90 points
2009 Clos de Vougeot
Practically opaque depth to the garnet color. Striking aromatic profile of macerated dark fruits, freshly turned warm soil and underbrush. This hits the palate with loads of muscle, offering massive structure, loads of gripping tannins, yet all somehow buffered by sappy and persistent fruit – buckets of fruit. This is a wine demanding time in the cellar – and it will surely reward the patient.
93+ points
2010 Clos de Vougeot
By comparison to its 2009 stable mate the 2010 version of this wine reveals similar color – but that’s where the similarities end. This version is almost painfully backward at this stage, revealing the house style of intense earthiness married to a judicious but integrated wood influence. But on the palate, this is massive, backward, taut, and tannic, and in need of a minimum of 5 years to even begin to reveal what lingers on the finish: miles of the sweetest, purest, blackest fruits, gobs of minerality as well as earth nuances to burn. A 25 year wine, without question.
94-96 points
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard et Fils:
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru En Orveaux
Beautiful, deep ruby colors across the board here in 2010; as well as crystalline purity to the robes. The Orveaux for 2010 offers a delicious aromatic profile of every type of pinot fruit, combined with black currant and sweet spices. This is very nearly full bodied already and lingers on the palate to finish quite juicy and long. Delicious!
90 points
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts
Beautiful, deep ruby colors across the board here in 2010; as well as crystalline purity to the robes. Aromatically, in a word: Wow! This has such a profoundly sweet and spicy attack that the aromas literally leap from the glass. On the palate, the flavors do not disappoint; supporting the promise from the nose with buckets of extract that offer black and red pinot fruit to burn. The tannins only appear after two to three minutes of finish time; suggesting a wine for the cellar. But this will be very hard to resist young.
94 points
2010 Romanee Saint Vivant
Beautiful, deep ruby colors across the board here in 2010; as well as crystalline purity to the robes. This is, quite frankly, one of the more difficult to articulate aromatic profiles encountered on the trip; while certainly wild and untamed, that quality almost masks the otherwise intensely sappy and almost dark-roasted-coffee nuances of the wine. But on the palate, the wine truly exemplifies the greatness of the appellation: it’s a sexy, silky, juicy wine that is so packed with fruit that the tannins are invisible. This offers the taster a 5-minute finish that simply must be experienced to be believed. One of the real WOW wines of the vintage. Do NOT miss.
98 points
Domaine Bruno Clavelier
2010 Vosne Romanee La Combe Brulee
Stunning clarity to the garnet colors across the board in Clavelier’s 2010s; the robes literally shine. Another aspect of Clavelier’s 2010s that impresses is an unmistakable Vosne perfume and spice that permeates the aromatics across the range. Here, in this old vine Village cuvee, the red pinot fruit dominates. The palate combines red fruits and hints of fresh minerality to culminate in a delicious and sappy finish that classically exemplified true Vosne.
90 points
2010 Vosne Romanee Les Hautes Maizieres
Stunning clarity to the garnet colors across the board in Clavelier’s 2010s; the robes literally shine. Another aspect of Clavelier’s 2010s that impresses is an unmistakable Vosne perfume and spice that permeates the aromatics across the range. Another old vine cuvee here that offers a very different aromatic profile than its stable mate: with black cherry, smoke and truffle nuances. On the palate, this is decidedly more muscular and dark, yet both of these offer seriously style for Village wines.
90 points
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Brulees
Stunning clarity to the garnet colors across the board in Clavelier’s 2010s; the robes literally shine. Another aspect of Clavelier’s 2010s that impresses is an unmistakable Vosne perfume and spice that permeates the aromatics across the range. As is generally the case, the nose here is flat out seductive; offering a cornucopia of sweet fruits, Christmas spices and incense. The palate approaches full body, yet the tannins are buried by sweet yet precisely balanced fruit. There’s simply nothing out of place and the mineral component adds that extra edge.
92+ points
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
Stunning clarity to the garnet colors across the board in Clavelier’s 2010s; the robes literally shine. Another aspect of Clavelier’s 2010s that impresses is an unmistakable Vosne perfume and spice that permeates the aromatics across the range. Absolutely knock out aromas of the purest black pinot fruit greet the nose along with that tell-tale Vosne spice; this is so alluring that one can’t take their nose from the glass. This is as full bodied as Grand Cru Burgundy and big boned, too: palate staining fruit is allied to gripping tannins that demand cellar time. There is minerality to burn, but the wine will need a decade to unwind. Do not miss.
94 points
Domaine Confuron Cotetidot
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots
Garnet-tinged colors here tend towards an almost opaqueness; while not quite black/purple, seriously deep. Aromatically, this is a seriously spice and black fruit driven version of Suchots that also offers layers of truffle, clove and sturdy wood smoke nuances. The palate is equally masculine, with the black fruits and structure battling for center stage. This is a big time wine in need of some down time.
92+? points
2010 Echezeaux
Black ruby purple in color, with the intensity and brilliance of the color running right to the rim. As can often be the case with this wine, the aromas today are exotic to the point of odd: offering enticing nuances of truffle, earth and blue pinot fruits, that are nonetheless affected by the cheesiness of the bottling funk. On the palate, however, this is again one of the top examples of its genre; with serious sap, impressive focus as well as tannins and a big boned personality not to be taken lightly. A serious Echezeaux worthy of the Grand Cru moniker.
94+? points
Domaine Anne Gros
2010 Echezeaux
Very pretty as well as brilliant colors across the range for Anne Gros in 2010; while not particularly opaque, the ruby colors are nonetheless very pure. Consistent with the Domaine’s use of 80% new oak for the Grand Crus, the aromatic profile here offers a pronounced – yet perfectly balanced – wood smoke aspect. The wood is allied to a spicy as well as jam-filled nose that satisfies the pure hedonist. The palate follows the promise of the nose and is equally sweet, sexy and jammy; with that wood spice note perfectly enveloping the wine and drawing you back for a second taste. Perhaps this will be too delicious for some, but I enjoyed every sip.
93 points
2010 Clos de Vougeot
Very pretty as well as brilliant colors across the range for Anne Gros in 2010; while not particularly opaque, the ruby colors are nonetheless very pure. Consistent with the Domaine’s use of 80% new oak for the Grand Crus, the aromatic profile here offers a pronounced – yet perfectly balanced – wood smoke aspect. The wood treatment on the Clos Vougeot is combined on the nose with nuances of underbrush, chocolate and black cherry. As with its stable mate, this is full bodied, yet it is far more backward at this stage and will require at least 5 years to unwind. But the promise is there, as evidenced by the full three minute finish. Don’t miss.
95 points
2010 Richebourg
Very pretty as well as brilliant colors across the range for Anne Gros in 2010; while not particularly opaque, the ruby colors are nonetheless very pure. Consistent with the Domaine’s use of 80% new oak for the Grand Crus, the aromatic profile here offers a pronounced – yet perfectly balanced – wood smoke aspect. This was one of the first wines of the event where a pause and real reflection of what was in the glass was required: this is a real wow wine. Literally buckets of the deepest and most intense red fruits, incense, burning embers, exotic spices and power leap from the glass and also coat and caress the palate. The wine simply envelopes the taster. Positively striking performance.
95-97 points
Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur
2010 Echezeaux
Impressive, dark garnet colors across the range here for 2010; quite pure robes as well. High pitched aromas combine all the pinot fruits (red, blue and black) with an abundance of wood smoke and hints of Christmas spice that lead to a medium bodied wine of good intensity of flavor if not as much intensity as the Anne Gros version. Quite good though.
91 points
2010 Clos de Vougeot Musigni
Impressive, dark garnet colors across the range here for 2010; quite pure robes as well. An intense aromatic profile offers up loads of wood smoke that surround ultra jammy and sappy red pinot fruit and hints of underbrush. The nose is far less earthy, far jammier. On the palate, as always, this is one of the most full bodied of the genre, yet the jammy fruits offer practically immediate drinkability. Will it make seriously old bones? Who cares, it’s delicious right now.
93 points
2010 Grands Echezeaux
Impressive, dark garnet colors across the range here for 2010; quite pure robes as well. Another winner of an aromatic profile! This time we find the bluest of pinot fruits swimming in a pool of fresh cut flowers that are far less affected by the wood smoke nuances than the previous wines. The palate is firm, seemingly elegant yet thick, mouth coating, yet caressing and lingers for nearly three minutes. So sweet, so alluring, with a palate presence truly worthy of the Grand Cru moniker. Another wine not to miss.
94 points
2010 Richebourg
Impressive, dark garnet colors across the range here for 2010; quite pure robes as well. Yet another aromatic profile that demands reflection. Baskets of wild flowers are floating effortlessly atop macerated black cherries, while the perfectly integrated oak treatment lends more of a mint / eucalyptus aspect to the almost ethereal aromatic experience. The palate here is another case of seeming contradictions: while there is power, the wine remains seamless; while the wine is sturdy, it remains very classy. A wine to definitely not miss.
95 points
Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noellat
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Suchots
Across the range for 2010, the Hudelot-Noellat offers show the most crystalline ruby red colors that are so brilliant one can truly imagine a gemstone. True to the site, this version offers an aromatic profile of classic perfume notes to include violet and ripe red pinot fruit. Allied to that are additional layers of sweet wood spice and incense that perfectly announce Vosne – one of the most successful villages for 2010. The palate suggests this is one of the finest of the type for 2010, with deeply concentrated flavors and a spicy finish that lingers for minutes.
92+ points
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaumonts
Across the range for 2010, the Hudelot-Noellat offers show the most crystalline ruby red colors that are so brilliant one can truly imagine a gemstone. While this site tends to lend itself to slightly larger scaled wines than Suchots, by contrast I found this version to be less expressive than its Suchots stable mate. While certainly dark fruited and palate coating, the tannins were quite pronounced. This is full bodied, long on the finish and quite intense, but the Suchots out-performed it today.
91? points
2010 Clos de Vougeot
Across the range for 2010, the Hudelot-Noellat offers show the most crystalline ruby red colors that are so brilliant one can truly imagine a gemstone. A bowl of the purest red pinot fruit, soaking with red cherries, minerals, stones and licorice greet the nose and announce one of the classic examples of the vintage. The palate is equally appealing, engaging the taster with flavors of ripe berries and that mineral and licorice aspect from the nose. A truly classic example and one of the best versions of the vintage.
94 points
2010 Romanee-Saint-Vivant
Across the range for 2010, the Hudelot-Noellat offers show the most crystalline ruby red colors that are so brilliant one can truly imagine a gemstone. Approaching this wine, having experienced the 2002, 2005 and recently the 1999, I had hoped for pure fireworks – alas I was disappointed by the wine’s aromatic performance. Red fruits and spice were present, but the excitement I recall from previous vintages was simply lacking. Could this be symptomatic of recent bottling? The palate offered layers of sensual fruit, long and repeating fruit nuances and a three minute finish, yet I continued to want for more. Time will tell.
93? points
2010 Richebourg
Across the range for 2010, the Hudelot-Noellat offers show the most crystalline ruby red colors that are so brilliant one can truly imagine a gemstone. Quite the opposite experience awaited me in contrast to the RSV as I engaged the Richebourg – possibly the single most important vineyard for this taster for 2010. Fireworks. Fig and plum preserves as well as every pinot fruit imaginable simply leapt from the glass. The palate here is otherworldly and in time, my score may indeed have to be edited upwards as the flavors here take off immediately, but then tame themselves in an effort to announce that patience will be demanded. An amazing and truly wow wine that should positively not be missed.
96 points
Domaine Francois Lamarche
2010 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes
The 2010s from Lamarche are generally ruby red in color, with a nice sheen to their robes, right to the rim. Aromatically, this is ultra spicy, with a classic Vosne nose of incense, Christmas spice and red pinot fruit – yet it’s not as forward and certainly not as oaky as some in the room today. On the palate, this tends to the traditional, with less of the showy fruit style and more of a tendency towards mineral, spice and tender fruit. A classic version and already drinking well.
90 points
2010 Echezeaux
The 2010s from Lamarche are generally ruby red in color, with a nice sheen to their robes, right to the rim. Compared to other Echezeaux offerings today, this may be one of the more expressive, as it fills the sinuses with ultra penetrating nuances of mulling spices, black currant, dates and freshly turned underbrush. Classic, old-school (in the best sense) and worthy of the Grand Cru moniker, this is Echezeaux for the text books: powerful, textural, sappy and ultra long on the finish. Possibly one of the finest of the vintage. Do not miss.
95 points
2010 Clos de Vougeot
The 2010s from Lamarche are generally ruby red in color, with a nice sheen to their robes, right to the rim. A precise and noticeable style is emerging Chez Lamarche – and I like it. Aromatically, again we have a pronounced turned earth component that lends itself to the black cherry and slightly less pronounced mineral component when compared to the Echezeaux stable mate. Perhaps it’s because this was sampled after the Echezeaux, but today, this seems less flamboyant than its sibling. Nevertheless, it’s sweet, round and long on the lingering and minerally finish.
92 points
Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg
2010 Echezeaux
The deep, deep garnet colors here, across the board, reflect the amazingly low yields due to shot berries combined with the usual strict selection process. Another pristine example of just how good Echezeaux can be, the aromatic fireworks here include allspice, cumin, ginger, cinnamon and clove – all allied to a liqueur of red pinot fruit and macerated plums. On the tongue, this is so sweet as to be almost candied, yet it holds its focus with wood tannin and terrific acidity. Full bodied, terrifically long and powerfully captivating, this too is among the superstars of the genre for 2010. Do not miss.
94 points
2010 Clos de Vougeot
The deep, deep garnet colors here, across the board, reflect the amazingly low yields due to shot berries combined with the usual strict selection process. As I engaged the nose here, I was transported back to the Hudelot-Noellat version of this wine. Aromas of the purest licorice / anise seed greeted the sinuses and were combined with macerated red fruits of every description. The palate followed suit to include ultra sappy fruits, massive length, focus, power and warmth yet perfect balance. Another real wow wine that is utterly not to be missed.
95 points
Domaine Tortochot
2010 Clos de Vougeot
Medium deep colors of pure red ruby, with a nice crystalline quality here. Farming purely according to agriculture biodynamic produces wines of classical aromatic profiles Chez Tortochot: the Clos Vougeot 2010 offers nuances of freshly turned earth, forest floor and menthol married to crushed and macerated blue pinot fruit. On the palate, there’s purity to the earthy, mineral infused quality of the wine that takes center stage to the fruit. This is a large scaled effort, yet the tannins are well integrated, suggesting patience will be well-rewarded.
93 points
(Part II – The event at Grange de Saulx) –
Domaine Pierre Amiot
2010 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes
Across the board here for 2010, the colors are brilliantly clear to the rim with a crystalline sheen to the gorgeous ruby robes. Aromatically, this is quite appealing if straightforward with its combination of red cherry and blueberry with just the hint of minerality and wood smoke. The equally easy going palate suggests early drinkability and immediate appeal.
89 points
2010 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes
Across the board here for 2010, the colors are brilliantly clear to the rim with a crystalline sheen to the gorgeous ruby robes. Aromatically, this is a noticeable step up in complexity over the Aux Charmes, with far more minerality as well as wood smoke that complements the red and blue pinot fruit. The palate follows suit offering similar ramping up of the complexities, in particular a nice additional layer of tannic grip on the finish.
91 points
2010 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Ruchots
Across the board here for 2010, the colors are brilliantly clear to the rim with a crystalline sheen to the gorgeous ruby robes. As it generally is, this is the most complex by far of the Morey 1ers here, offering the most pronounced minerality as well as buckets of pronounced and high-pitched red pinot fruit on the nose. The palate too is quite exciting; offering a nearly full-bodied impression that is both jam packed with fruit and at the same time quite well balanced by the minerality and firm tannins. Serious stuff.
92+ points
2010 Clos de la Roche
Across the board here for 2010, the colors are brilliantly clear to the rim with a crystalline sheen to the gorgeous ruby robes. Intense wood smoke and black truffle greet the nose along with layer upon layer of the ripest and room filling nuances of fig jam, dates and wild strawberry jam. To say this is jammy is not an understatement. The palate offers similar sweetness of fruit but is also underpinned by good acidity, racy but not intrusive tannins and a sense of wood smoke that gives it a chocolate note. Quite easy to drink already, this should age beautifully, but it will hard to resist young.
93 points
Domaine Amiot Servelle
2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Plantes
Great clarity to the colors here, where the 2010s from Amiot Servelle, across the board exhibit great ruby robes. There is a great purity to the aromatic profiles here and the wines are far less edgy than in vintages past; no doubt attributable to the move to organic viticulture (certified as of the 2008 vintage) as well as marked improvements in the cellar. Here, the aromatics are noticeably framboise-like and are met by a nice streak of minerality on the palate to form a unique and lasting impression of precision and focus. This is already quite approachable for its forward fruit and will earn a lot of fans. Delicious.
90 points
2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes
Great clarity to the colors here, where the 2010s from Amiot Servelle, across the board exhibit great ruby robes. There is a great purity to the aromatic profiles here and the wines are far less edgy than in vintages past; no doubt attributable to the move to organic viticulture (certified as of the 2008 vintage) as well as marked improvements in the cellar. The Charmes ups the ante with additional layers of dark fruits as well as a pronounced mineral streak on the aromatic profile. The palate too is more intense as well as full bodied (compared to the Les Plantes) and finishes with palate staining persistence.
92 points
2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
Great clarity to the colors here, where the 2010s from Amiot Servelle, across the board exhibit great ruby robes. There is a great purity to the aromatic profiles here and the wines are far less edgy than in vintages past; no doubt attributable to the move to organic viticulture (certified as of the 2008 vintage) as well as marked improvements in the cellar. As is always the case Chez Amiot-Servelle, this is simply the jewel in the crown, offering a mélange of Christmas as well as baking spices, plum preserves and minerality to burn. The palate is brilliantly sappy, with the mineral and spice element from the nose reappearing on the finish. Classy juice. Don’t miss.
93+ points
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod
2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
Fabulous robe, the deepest garnet color here that approaches opaque in color. Aromatically, this is quite frankly one of those wines that will hold the taster in their tracks. There are so many various and complex nuances of every type of pinot fruit enveloping the sinuses that one can hardly describe the experience: blue berry, candied cranberry, cassis and plum preserve. Within the fruit there is the purest essence of Chambolle terroir: mineral, crushed rocks, underbrush and burning embers. The palate is equally thrilling; combining the elements from the nose with a seemingly full bodied palate presence that is never cloying. Thrilling and a positively do not miss wine.
95 points
Domaine Bertagna
2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Plantes
Ruby-red colors across the line up here for 2010, as well as a sheen to the robes that glistens to the eye; wonderfully beautiful colors. Aromatically, this is noticeably delicate compared to other Les Plantes, with no intrusion by the hints of toast that only serve to lift the floral elements and red pinot fruit. On the palate too this is reserved but delicious and would do well as an aperitif or 1st course wine.
89 points
2010 Vougeot 1er Cru Clos de la Perriere Monopole
Ruby-red colors across the line up here for 2010, as well as a sheen to the robes that glistens to the eye; wonderfully beautiful colors. By contrast, this is decidedly more masculine; with a pronounced but far from intrusive wood smoke element to the nose that also offers nuances of black berry jam. On the palate, the structure of Vougeot shows through; with some grip, good focus and energy as well as those dark fruit nuances from the nose. Delicious and with years to go.
90 points
2010 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeot
Ruby-red colors across the line up here for 2010, as well as a sheen to the robes that glistens to the eye; wonderfully beautiful colors. As with the Monopole, there is a touch of wood smoke here that only adds to the ripe, sweet and blue pinot fruited nose. There’s a sense of rose-petal here as well; a sense of perfume that lingers in the aromatic profile that is quite intriguing. On the palate, this is deceptively medium weight; almost airy. Yet the finish is pronounced and complex – suggesting time will benefit this year’s version.
90 points
2010 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Cras
Ruby-red colors across the line up here for 2010, as well as a sheen to the robes that glistens to the eye; wonderfully beautiful colors. Toasty oak, mineral and truffle combine on the nose with the most pronounced fruit aspect of these three Vougeot 1ers and the aromatics also include a jammy quality that is quite enticing. On the palate, this is by far the most complex and full bodied of the trio, offering a tannic spine that supports succulent fruit on the long and persistent finish. Delicious stuff.
91 points
2010 Clos Saint Denis
Ruby-red colors across the line up here for 2010, as well as a sheen to the robes that glistens to the eye; wonderfully beautiful colors. Aromatically, this in another class altogether Chez Bertagna – offering a kaleidoscopic range of fruits: macerated plums, currants and cherries; copious amounts of exotic spice: baking as well as Christmas; and minerality to burn. On the palate, the coats the tongue with buckets of jammy fruits and all the promise from the aromatics. Full bodied, well balanced and with the 100% new wood treatment perfectly integrated, this is another wow wine not to be missed.
95 points
2010 Corton Charlemagne
Medium yellow in color with a green-gold tint at the rim suggests a wine built for age. An immediately spicy aromatic profile greets the nose to include clove, allspice and nutmeg, which are complemented by equally exciting aromas of honey, toasted bread, roasted nuts, vanilla and granny smith apples. The palate is utterly full bodied, sweetly fruited with layers of honeyed apples and citrus that all culminate in a long, powerful and full bodied finish of precision and punch. This will be one of the stars of the genre.
94 points
2010 Corton Les Grandes Lolieres
Deeply pitched garnet in color here for the 2010 version of this wine, with a persistent hue right to the rim. Aromatically, this offers a massive display of deeply layered and complex fruits to include macerated and jammy red raspberry and wild strawberry preserves. It’s all about the fruit on the nose yet there is also a wildness here that beckons the taster back for more. On the palate, this is a very large scaled wine, showcasing layer upon layer of fruit, tannin and power as well as copious amounts of sap and complexity. Another wow wine not to be missed.
95 points
Domaine Virgile Lignier-Michelot
2010 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Advancements Chez Lignier-Michelot include a move to agriculture Biologique as well as the use of a higher percentage of whole clusters during vinification. These changes resulted in both brilliant colors as well as striking aromatic profiles throughout the range for 2010. The Chambolles all displayed brilliant ruby robes, while the Moreys and Grand Crus offered visual tones leaning more toward garnet. This version is from 50 to 60 year old vines and aromatically displays a positively jammy blueberry nose. On the palate, this is lush, already drinkable and all about the fruit. Delicious.
89 points
2010 Morey Saint Denis Vieilles Vignes
Advancements Chez Lignier-Michelot include a move to agriculture Biologique as well as the use of a higher percentage of whole clusters during vinification. These changes resulted in both brilliant colors as well as striking aromatic profiles throughout the range for 2010. The Chambolles all displayed brilliant ruby robes, while the Moreys and Grand Crus offered visual tones leaning more toward garnet. Again, there is a certain jammy quality to the wine here, with the fruit tones leaning a bit more to the black fruit spectrum: black cherry jam and such. The palate too is ripe and almost lush, but there’s a bit more tannin to bring in the focus on the long and satisfying finish. It’s just as approachable now (as the Chambolle VV) and will be hard to resist young.
89 points
2010 Morey Saint Denis En la Rue de Vergy
Advancements Chez Lignier-Michelot include a move to agriculture Biologique as well as the use of a higher percentage of whole clusters during vinification. These changes resulted in both brilliant colors as well as striking aromatic profiles throughout the range for 2010. The Chambolles all displayed brilliant ruby robes, while the Moreys and Grand Crus offered visual tones leaning more toward garnet. Jammy fruit nuances are complicated a bit more than in the 2 previous wines by a trace of minerality on the aromatics as well as the palate, while the flavors continue to brim with extract. This has a bit more grip and while just as lush, is a tad more grown up with its racy acidity.
90 points
2010 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnieres
Advancements Chez Lignier-Michelot include a move to agriculture Biologique as well as the use of a higher percentage of whole clusters during vinification. These changes resulted in both brilliant colors as well as striking aromatic profiles throughout the range for 2010. The Chambolles all displayed brilliant ruby robes, while the Moreys and Grand Crus offered visual tones leaning more toward garnet. Another old vine parcel (60 year old vines from just next to Millandes) that offers an absolutely room filling bouquet of strawberry compote and red raspberry liqueur – this aromatic profile is quite nearly Clos Saint Denis in style. The palate follow through on the promise from the bouquet and includes jammy red raspberries allied to classic and classy minerality. A wow wine not to be missed.
94 points
2010 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux
Advancements Chez Lignier-Michelot include a move to agriculture Biologique as well as the use of a higher percentage of whole clusters during vinification. These changes resulted in both brilliant colors as well as striking aromatic profiles throughout the range for 2010. The Chambolles all displayed brilliant ruby robes, while the Moreys and Grand Crus offered visual tones leaning more toward garnet. In contrast to the Faconnieres – while continuing in the theme Chez Lignier-Michelot of wonderfully sappy aromatics – this wine tends more towards the dark fruit spectrum, with a plumy style and a touch of wood smoke. On the palate, the sweetness and sappy style continues, with a flat our lip-smacking personality that is simply wonderful to taste right now. There are some tannins to resolve, but this too will be hard to resist young, however it’s not quite at the level of the Faconnieres.
92 points
2010 Clos de la Roche
Advancements Chez Lignier-Michelot include a move to agriculture Biologique as well as the use of a higher percentage of whole clusters during vinification. These changes resulted in both brilliant colors as well as striking aromatic profiles throughout the range for 2010. The Chambolles all displayed brilliant ruby robes, while the Moreys and Grand Crus offered visual tones leaning more toward garnet. There will be many arguments (as there was at the GJDB) as to which is better in 2010: the Faconnieres or the CDR. Impeccable, room filling and jaw dropping aromas of wild flowers, minerals, incense and macerating red currants captivate the nose in the aromatics of this drop dead gorgeous CDR. The aromas continue through on the palate and are held in place by a wine of massive proportions that remains almost austere in its tight-rope walk of finesse and grace. While possessing all the fruit and glycerin one expects, this wine also retains an almost brooding and backward personality. A 30 year wine, easily, that will certainly be on most people’s must have list.
95 points
Domaine Michel Magnien
2010 Morey Saint Denis Tres Girard
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. Today this wine was quite backward – aromatically as well as on the palate – and recalled the 2005 at a similar stage. The blue fruited aromatics took time to coax from the glass and the palate remained tightly wound. The finish was long and only after time began to unfold. Time will tell.
88-90? points
2010 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. By contrast, the aromatics here are inescapably Morey: dark berries of plum and black pinot fruit are met by the tell-tale Morey minerality on the nose. The palate offers that rich and sturdy Magnien signature of body, structure, dark berries and firm tannin. Lay this one away, it will reward the patient.
92 points
2010 Chambolle Musigny Les Fremieres
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. Sexy, pure and inviting aromas of strawberry compote and hints of minerality greet the nose and echo on the palate, which also includes nuances of jammy red pinot fruit that help to buffer the otherwise impressive tannic spine. It’s all here, but this is built for the cellar.
92 points
2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. Classic Chambolle aromatics of crushed red fruits meet the nose along with minerality and a sense of place that is the essence of Magnien. The palate sings as well with layers of red pinot fruit, spice, incense and an almost Grand Cru minerality and power. This too will require time.
93 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin Les Seuvrees Vieilles Vignes
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. Aromatically, this offers up jammy blue pinot fruit in a near flashy style that is both sexy as well as classis: the aromas are both modern and true to the terroir. The palate is bit more backward than the nose implies, however, and while certainly attractive, will benefit from some down time.
89+? Points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. Here, the fruit is so intense that one could use any number of descriptors to discuss this aromatic profile: this offers a literal cornucopia of dark and red pinot fruit that is so sappy it could be called perfumed. This is such a jammy and personality filled nose. On the palate, this is the most Gevrey of just about anything tasted thus far: earthy, robust, animale and unquestionably terroir-driven. This is textbook Gevrey and as full bodied and cellar worthy as one could desire. A real do not miss wine.
94 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. Aromas of black fruits dominate the nose here, and while similar to the Cazetiers, it’s not nearly as kaleidoscopic. While sweetly penetrating, it’s a bit less animale; more fruit driven. Side by side, one would consider this perfectly sweet and forward, with the Cazetiers the more complete and textbook of the two examples. This is perfectly Gevrey and generous, it just pales a bit compared to the Cazetiers.
92 points
2010 Charmes Chambertin
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. Aromatically, the black cherry marmalade suggests this is pure Charmes, and then the woodsy, underbrush and fennel aspects recall notions of Mazoyeres. This is powerfully full-bodied, backward and stern today – again suggesting Mazoyeres – and the grip suggests 20 to 30 years of longevity. While not particularly sweet today, the 3 minute finish bodes well for the future.
93+? points
2010 Clos de la Roche
For the Domaine wines, those labeled with the black labels bearing the Michel Magnien name, colors were very nearly opaque, heading towards black-purple for the Moreys, Gevreys as well as the CDR; while the Chambolles exhibited brilliant ruby tones: impressive hues here. Another aromatic profile where the taster takes a pause: positively jammy and extremely mineral-infused on the nose, the aromatics drive home the power and fragrance of CDR. On the palate, this is more backward than the aromatic display of fruit-packed fireworks would suggest, but there is such power and length that one knows this is a 30 year wine. The mid-palate sap completely buffers the tannin and the finish rolls back around to re-introduce the sappiness found in the aromatics. A profound wine that will demand down time.
94+? Points
Maison Frederic Magnien
2010 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Though not technically owned outright, the Maison Magnien wines, denoted by the white labels are nonetheless raised, vinified and bottled with the same care and attention as the Domaine wines. These exhibited similarly pristine colors as their stable mates: penetrating ruby hues across the Chambolles, while garnet tints approached opaque on the Moreys as well as Gevreys. From a parcel of 60 to 65 year old vines, this offer reveals aromatics of crushed and macerated red cherries, strawberries and buckets of other red pinot fruit that follow through on the palate. The flavors also include a hint of minerality, but it’s really all about the sweet red berry fruit here. Flat out delicious.
89 points
2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes Vieilles Vignes
Though not technically owned outright, the Maison Magnien wines, denoted by the white labels are nonetheless raised, vinified and bottled with the same care and attention as the Domaine wines. These exhibited similarly pristine colors as their stable mates: penetrating ruby hues across the Chambolles, while garnet tints approached opaque on the Moreys as well as Gevreys. Continuing with the sappy red fruit component, this old vine cuvee (also 60+ years in age) gains additional complexity aromatically from a bit more wood smoke and additional layers of minerality. On the palate, the minerality is quite pronounced, along with more power and structure than the regular CM and the finish lingers to suggest cellar time will be quite rewarded.
92 points
2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Borniques
Though not technically owned outright, the Maison Magnien wines, denoted by the white labels are nonetheless raised, vinified and bottled with the same care and attention as the Domaine wines. These exhibited similarly pristine colors as their stable mates: penetrating ruby hues across the Chambolles, while garnet tints approached opaque on the Moreys as well as Gevreys. Consistent with the aromatics Chez Magnien for 2010, buckets of the lushest red pinot fruits greet the nose and are allied to a sense of Christmas spice yet a touch less minerality than the Charmes. This seems more spice infused compared to the Charmes, yet less earthy. Palate-wise, the body is similarly medium in weight, but there’s a distinctly different profile here: this seems more feminine, while the Charmes by comparison seems more earth driven. Quite an interesting comparison this year.
92 points
2010 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Ruchots
Though not technically owned outright, the Maison Magnien wines, denoted by the white labels are nonetheless raised, vinified and bottled with the same care and attention as the Domaine wines. These exhibited similarly pristine colors as their stable mates: penetrating ruby hues across the Chambolles, while garnet tints approached opaque on the Moreys as well as Gevreys. Black berry compote as well as wood smoke greets the nose and entices the senses and carries over to the unquestionably full-bodied palate that also includes sappy, palate staining buckets of black pinot fruit. This is almost large-scaled and the finish lasts and lasts. One for the cellar.
92 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St Jacques
Though not technically owned outright, the Maison Magnien wines, denoted by the white labels are nonetheless raised, vinified and bottled with the same care and attention as the Domaine wines. These exhibited similarly pristine colors as their stable mates: penetrating ruby hues across the Chambolles, while garnet tints approached opaque on the Moreys as well as Gevreys. Here one finds one of those aromatic profiles that require a pause: macerating prunes and black cherries are allied to chicory, wood smoke, burning embers and baking spices that carry over to the exotic palate to create an impression of sweetness as well as place and time. This is so enticing, alluring and practically Grand Cru that one will be hard pressed to avoid this young. But the underlying acidity (the tannins are buried) will carry this wine for a decade plus. Do not miss.
94 points
Domaine Jacques Frederic Mugnier
2010 Chambolle Musigny
Gorgeous, gemstone ruby red in color; penetrating robe all the way to the rim. While not designated Vieilles Vignes, this bottling is from various parcels that average roughly 40 years in age. Aromatically, this filled the room, escaping from the glass to suggest late harvested nuances of jammy strawberries, baker’s chocolate, roasted coffee and only a whiff of minerality. The palate impression is all about the purity of fruit, with the minerality taking a back seat and offering support to the delicious, sappy and lingering – as well as lip smacking – red pinot fruit. A delicious and classic example.
90 points
2010 Musigny
Penetrating, borderline opaque black-purple in color; with a garnet robe right to the rim – striking color. There are certain aromatic profiles in one’s tasting career that are very difficult to translate into words – this is one of them. Haunting, room filling, sinus captivating and memory enthralling aromas to include chiseled rocks, river-bed minerals, iron, Indian spices, liqueur of red berries, macerated plums and an exotic red perfume nuance that is simply indefinable and inescapable. The palate is weightless, yet fills every crevice to include the purest minerality and ultra jammy yet never overdone fruitiness from the aromatics. There is utter precision, balance, grace and power here – yet the wine is never cloying nor taught. Every single aspect is perfectly in place here. If you are one of the lucky few to latch onto a bottle of this, it will drink well young, and then shut down until its (probably) 20th birthday. From there, this wine will age for decades. Haunting. Perfection.
100 points
(Part III – The event at Maison de Marsannay) –
Domaine Rene Bouvier
2010 Marsannay Clos du Roy
Across the range for 2010, the Bouvier wines exhibited deep garnet colors, with crystalline robes to the rim; very deep, pure colors here. True to Marsannay, Bouvier’s Clos du Roy exhibits pure black cherry jam on the nose for 2010, with the palate following suit to also include some rusticity and hints of minerality. A classic meat and potatoes wine, this is for those who enjoy classic, old-world Pinot.
88 points
2010 Fixin Crais de Chene
Across the range for 2010, the Bouvier wines exhibited deep garnet colors, with crystalline robes to the rim; very deep, pure colors here. Compared to the Marsannay, this offers aromas that lean more to the red pinot spectrum, allied to nuances of a decidedly earthier, gamier and spicier character. This offers similar minerality on the palate, yet with the sweetness from the red fruits, it has an impression of being less rustic and a bit more refined than the Marsannay. A delicious Fixin.
89 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin Racines du Temps Tres Vieilles Vignes
Across the range for 2010, the Bouvier wines exhibited deep garnet colors, with crystalline robes to the rim; very deep, pure colors here. Aromatically, this offers pure, classic and impressively expressive black pinot fruit allied to deep minerality and freshly turned underbrush. On the palate, classic Gevrey terroir shines through to include the plumy fruit from the nose along with stones, animale and tell-tale minerality. The balance between the dark pinot fruit and the transparency is impressive and the full bodied character suggests serious attention to detail. Good stuff.
91 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Fontenys
Across the range for 2010, the Bouvier wines exhibited deep garnet colors, with crystalline robes to the rim; very deep, pure colors here. By comparison, the nose here is more on the blue and red pinot fruited side, with a pure, sappy and only slightly minerally tinged nuance. The flavors are more refined, fruit driven and less powerful, but the finish lingers, suggesting more complexity and overall refinement. This is quite sweet and suave and will reward some cellar time.
92 points
2010 Charmes Chambertin
Across the range for 2010, the Bouvier wines exhibited deep garnet colors, with crystalline robes to the rim; very deep, pure colors here. Aromatically, this recalls Mazoyeres, with its predominately dark nuances of earth, truffle, smoke and mineral, allied to black pinot fruit and notes of truffle. The plate is brooding and backward today, offering primarily earthy notes of truffle and smoke, and only with air and a few minutes of time in the glass did the dark pinot fruit begin to emerge. This may require a few years of down time, as it’s completely inverted today. But the power and grip suggest serious wine-making.
92+? points
Domaine Bruno Clair
2009 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
Beautiful, deep, penetrating ruby red color; gemstone, crystalline hue right to the rim. Aromas of cherry compote, strawberry jam and the purest red pinot fruit jump from the glass and are allied to wood smoke and layers of minerality that perfectly announce this wine’s origin. This is absolutely jammy (ala 2009), yet retains its roots of Gevrey character. The palate is already offering sensual drinkability and may never shut down, yet the racy acidity offers precise transparency. Delicious.
91 points
Domaine Collotte
2010 Marsannay Champs Salomon
There is something very unique about the wines emanating from this producer, and that something begins with the colors; the beautifully ruby colors suggest a less extracted style, yet the robes are crystalline to the rim. Aromatically, this lieu dit offers up beautiful notes of red pinot fruit and hints of minerals that lead to a purity that’s lifted by salinity and fruit skins. There’s an airy sense to this wine that rarely appears in this hamlet, and I like it.
90 points
2010 Fixin Crais de Chene Vieilles Vignes
There is something very unique about the wines emanating from this producer, and that something begins with the colors; the beautifully ruby colors suggest a less extracted style, yet the robes are crystalline to the rim. Again we have red pinot-dominated fruit in the aromatic profile, yet this wine, by comparison to the Marsannay, seems more elegant – less masculine – and even seems to offer a sense of perfumed exoticism that again is rarely found in this particular region. The palate too is practically elegant, with a purity of fruit and a sense of grace that almost recalls Chambolles more than Fixin. I really like this wine.
91 points
Domaine Dupont Tisserandot
2010 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
As Didier Chevillon succinctly stated, thick skins and excellent concentration, along with careful work in the cellar resulted in some of the deepest colors since 2003 – across the range for 2010, Dupont Tisserandot’s wines are among the deepest colored wines of the vintage. High-pitched tones of strawberry compote and red cherry marmalade on the aromatics are met by nuances of fresh earth that lead to similar tones on the palate that also include moderate tannins to add support. This is all about the fruit and it’s all the better for it.
89 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers
As Didier Chevillon succinctly stated, thick skins and excellent concentration, along with careful work in the cellar resulted in some of the deepest colors since 2003 – across the range for 2010, Dupont Tisserandot’s wines are among the deepest colored wines of the vintage. Yet another example of just how lush and red fruited these offers can be; but this time, the cassis liqueur dominated nose is ratcheted up another notch with a powerful punch of stones, minerality, earthiness and game that utterly define this lieu dit. The palate likewise defines the lieu dit with its depth, complexity and wildness that surrounds and supports the ultra jammy and sappy fruit. As good as previous vintages of this have been, this is at another level altogether. A real do not miss wine.
94 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques
As Didier Chevillon succinctly stated, thick skins and excellent concentration, along with careful work in the cellar resulted in some of the deepest colors since 2003 – across the range for 2010, Dupont Tisserandot’s wines are among the deepest colored wines of the vintage. Aromatically, in contrast to the Cazetiers, this is far more laid back and while revealing similar red pinot fruit, is far less extravagant. The palate is less intense as well, leaning towards medium weight, and while the minerality and terroir is certainly present, this is more the dancer while the Cazetiers is the weightlifter. But that’s not a slight, this wine is simply of a different character.
93 points
2010 Charmes Chambertin
As Didier Chevillon succinctly stated, thick skins and excellent concentration, along with careful work in the cellar resulted in some of the deepest colors since 2003 – across the range for 2010, Dupont Tisserandot’s wines are among the deepest colored wines of the vintage. As the dominating, jammy red fruits suggest, this is very nearly pure Charmes – and it is indeed charming. The texture, earth, fruit, tannins and medium weight of this offer also honor the lieu dit while showcasing terrific balance and grip. While certainly of Grand Cru class, this wine simply cannot outshine the Cazetiers. Again, that’s not a slight on this wine, that’s simply a fact as it relates to the greatness of the Cazetiers.
93 points
SARL Emilie Geantet
2009 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux
Emilie Geantet – daughter of Vincent Geantet, head of Domaine Geantet-Pansiot – formed her own winery in 2005 after graduation from enological university. With their move to traditionally styled wines, colors across the range are classically ruby in hue – leaning less toward garnet than in years past – and the robes are crystalline to the rim; very pretty colors here for 2009. Black pinot fruit greets the nose and is allied to a precise if not pronounced minerality that leads to a palate that is actually more driven and complex than the aromatics suggested. This is actually fairly defined, with a rich and well fruited personality that is buffered by serious but not aggressive tannins. Good stuff.
90 points
2009 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Perrieres
Emilie Geantet – daughter of Vincent Geantet, head of Domaine Geantet-Pansiot – formed her own winery in 2005 after graduation from enological university. With their move to traditionally styled wines, colors across the range are classically ruby in hue – leaning less toward garnet than in years past – and the robes are crystalline to the rim; very pretty colors here for 2009. Another dark pinot fruited nose is allied to more pronounced minerality as well as an overall more intense aromatic presence that follows through on the fuller bodied palate. This is classic Gevrey in character and stuffing and is likewise a candidate for time in the cellar.
91 points
2009 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes
Emilie Geantet – daughter of Vincent Geantet, head of Domaine Geantet-Pansiot – formed her own winery in 2005 after graduation from enological university. With their move to traditionally styled wines, colors across the range are classically ruby in hue – leaning less toward garnet than in years past – and the robes are crystalline to the rim; very pretty colors here for 2009. Classically red-pinot fruited aromatics are on display here and really set this wine apart from its stable mates and are allied to hints of racy minerality that reappear on the palate. This is really about the sweet, lush and detailed fruit, with the tannins and acidity offering lift and focus. Hard to resist now – but cellar time will be rewarded.
92 points
Domaine Geantet Pansiot
2010 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Vincent Geantet shifted to a more traditional style a few years back and as such his family’s wines are far less extracted than in years past – hence colors across the range leaning more towards ruby with crystalline purity to their robes; fabulous colors across the range in 2010. From parcels in excess of 60 years of age, this bottling offers an extremely dark pinot fruited nose that is supremely complicated by buckets of minerality and underbrush. This is classic Gevrey in its style and power, offering earthy, robust and palate coating complexity to buffer and support the sweetest plumy fruit. Areal winner of a village that is seriously worth seeking out.
91 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin En Champs
Vincent Geantet shifted to a more traditional style a few years back and as such his family’s wines are far less extracted than in years past – hence colors across the range leaning more towards ruby with crystalline purity to their robes; fabulous colors across the range in 2010. Another ancient vine cuvee – from vines planted in 1903 – this is simply one of the most jam filled samples of the event: offering a cornucopia of red fruits that include macerated strawberries, red currants and cherries. And while the palate is equally and stunningly fruit packed, the layers of minerality and wet stones that cascade across the palate are on another level all together – calling this Village simply doesn’t cut it. This is palate staining, large scaled and boasts a 3 minute finish that rolls back around, offering layer upon layer of delicious, sappy pleasure. A real must have wine for its level.
93 points
2010 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot
Vincent Geantet shifted to a more traditional style a few years back and as such his family’s wines are far less extracted than in years past – hence colors across the range leaning more towards ruby with crystalline purity to their robes; fabulous colors across the range in 2010. Aromatically, this is darker than the previous wines, with the black pinot fruit being allied to wood smoke, truffle and underbrush. The palate is equally as dense as the preceding, however and brings additional power with its tannic spine, big boned personality and palate coating earthiness. While the others may have their fruit at the core, this bottling proclaims Gevrey terroir in all its glory. A power wine for the cellar.
93 points
2010 Charmes Chambertin
Vincent Geantet shifted to a more traditional style a few years back and as such his family’s wines are far less extracted than in years past – hence colors across the range leaning more towards ruby with crystalline purity to their robes; fabulous colors across the range in 2010. The Geantet clan boasts virtually no plots under the age of 50 years – and their Charmes is no exception – so it’s difficult to peg whether this is true Charmes or Mazoyeres by its supremely earthy, sauvage and dark personality, as there is also plenty of ultra sweet, plush and succulent fruit allied to the sense of terroir. Either way, this is big-boned, very tannic and will definitely require the better part of a decade to even begin to reveal what took several minutes to coax from the glass: plums, dates, minerality to burn and that suave character that only this grand Cru can offer. If I had to flip a coin, I’d guess true Charmes – but I could easily be mistaken. Do not miss.
94 points
Christopher Massie on Wine 