While visiting with David Croix (winemaker for both Domaine des Croix as well as the famous Maison Camille Giroud) while in Burgundy for the Grand Jours de Bourgogne, I found it enlightening to discover how greatly he reveres the wines of Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry – current vigneron of the Domaine Albert Morot. Needless to say, when combining that reverence with Burghound’s decade-plus worth of praise, I made a point of visiting de Janvry to sample his outstanding 2010s.
As one exits the city of Beaune, heading northwest along the old Route de Bouze towards Bouze-les-Beaune, you’ll encounter the 19th century Chateau de la Creusotte – built in 1890 – which is the modern day headquarters of Domaine Albert Morot. The rather humble façade – more “quaint” than stately – is quite indicative of the man behind the scenes here. For while the wines emanating from Domaine Morot are world class – indeed striking – the winemaker himself is quite reserved.
De Janvry’s Domaine Morot was first established in 1820 by Albert Morot, the Great-grandfather of Madame Francoise Choppin – de Janvry’s Aunt. Having been first established as a much larger negociant firm in 1820, Madame Choppin and her brother were in charge of an estate that included not only their Domaine operation but the responsibilities of the negociant trade as well. With her brother’s failing health, Madame Choppin elected to cease the negociant trade in 1984 to focus solely on the Domaine side of the family business. Upon his uncle’s passing, with no children to inherit the Domaine, Geoffroy Choppin de Janvry became the next in line to assume responsibility of his family’s estate.
Taking over in 2000, de Janvry’s first decision would be a move towards Agriculture Biodynamique, a move which has resulted in purer, finer and more expressive wines year over year. Another decision made by de Janvry – to rehire many of the vineyard workers that had assisted over the years with both the negoce as well as Domaine portions of the family enterprise –results in expedited harvest times (a move that proves fortuitous in less than perfect vintages). Likewise, deciding to forgo oak barrels for fermentation after the drying effects witnessed during the 2003 elevage has further elevated the quality of de Janvry’s top-notch selections. In keeping with traditions, however, de Janvry respects his Aunt’s love of old vines, vowing to tend with care so as to retain the Domaine’s average vine age of more than 50 years.
As evidenced by ever increasing critical acclaim across the selections Chez Morot – where reviews from such notable critics the likes of Burghound have risen to the level of those generally bestowed upon THE most elite growers in the Cote – today’s Domaine Albert Morot is certainly on a qualitative hot streak. Among the dozens of growers as well as sizable, imposing negociant firms, none rates higher for the current vintage (2010) when comparing the Beaune lieu dits of Teurons, Bressandes, Marconnets, Toussaints (and others) than does de Janvry’s Domaine Morot. With reviews reaching these levels, it’s easy to understand the crowded booth de Janvry enjoyed at the Grand Jours de Bourgogne this year – not to mention the praise from his neighbors.
For currently available 2010s, please visit: