Most of you are aware that I began in this business way back in the 1980s, when wine was a different beast and the best Estates in a given region could often be counted on two hands. When I began to discover myself, to really hone my palate, perhaps somewhere around the late 1980s, just before I headed off to Burgundy to study at the old L’Ambassade du Vin in Pernand Vergelesses, I found myself at a tasting hosted by Kermit Lynch’s national representative.
Up to that point, I had dabbled with Burgundy, tasting a few basic offers readily available in the Dallas retail scene, easily attainable in my meager price range. I knew there must be something more, as even those humble examples, often from average vintages at best, peaked my interest. My palate tasted something there, something that I couldn’t quite explain but that I knew I wanted to continue searching through.
Back to that Lynch tasting now; I’ll tell you that I found something on that afternoon that has remained with me to this day. If I ever move to another field of work, if I ever elect to take my knowledge to work for someone else, I will always keep with me that experience from that tasting on that afternoon. It was my first experience with real Burgundy and it will haunt me – with great pleasure – for the rest of my life.
The wine offered on that eye and palate opening day, among many others, was Domaine Maume. The vintage tasted was 1985. And as I tasted through the wines, made by the current generation of Maume’s father, I simply could not ever imagine describing another wine as “perfect”. For me, as I searched for the definition of that elusive word called terroir, as I searched for direction in this maze called the Cote D’Or, I had found my reference point estate. Many a Burgundy has passed these lips since that day in the late 1980s, and each has been graded by that measuring rod.
Today’s Domaine Maume is under the amazingly gifted watch of Bertrand Maume, son to the man who first befriended Kermit all those decades past. Bertrand is the man behind this famous estate’s glorious current releases, considered better than even the glories of his Father before him. And if you could have witnessed those past glories, as I have, you would indeed be amazed to know how awe inspiring the new generation of Maume is, not only for me, but for Burghound, as well.
Burghound recently defined the work of Bernard’s son, Bertrand:
“Bertrand Maume continues to refine the style of his wines and they are materially different than those of only a few years ago with much finer, more sophisticated tannins and a more elegant delivery. In short, the wines are more complete and more harmonious while not sacrificing the intense flavor authority that they always have had. In the past I’ve described small changes that have been implemented but it appears that with the 2001 and 2002 vintages, there’s a new confidence and even pride in the new style. Perhaps just as importantly, Bernard Maume, who is still a member of the enology department at the University of Dijon and Bertrand’s father, seems equally taken, indeed even downright enthusiastic about what Bertrand has accomplished and this has undoubtedly helped to ease the tension that inevitably occurs when relatively significant changes in style occur.”
— Allen Meadows, Burghound
Today, I bring to you what is, historically, one of the latest releasing Domaines in Burgundy. This notoriously late release is due to the frigid temperatures of Maume’s extremely deep cellars.
As we say, save some of the best for last…
For details regarding vintages, pricing and appellations available, contact me at the shop…
All the best in wine and life,
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommelier
2439 Times BLVD
Houston, TX 77005