“Trois Coeurs” Fine Wine Brokers

“Trois Coeurs”

Fine Wine Brokers

Dedicated to the world of Biodynamic^®, Naturally Produced & Sustainably-Farmed Wines.

 

Our History

In 2009 Trois Coeurs Fine Wine Brokers was founded by Christopher Massie, Certified Sommelier, L’Ambassade du Vin, as the result of a 25 year career in the business of terroir driven, naturally produced wines. 

It was the late 1980s… Our “unabashed Francophile” leader – as he has been described by the local wine writers in Houston – was just beginning his career in the wine business working in one of the most upscale dining establishments in the Dallas area – Riviera. Christopher Massie found himself under the wing of owner Franco Bertolasi, and by the end of one short year he had encountered tastings that included1982 First Growth Bordeaux, multiple vintages of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and verticals of Ramonet White Burgundies. Yes, the 1980s were a great time to be in the wine business and Christopher was indeed in a great place to cut his professional teeth.

Later that decade, Christopher attended one of the most important tastings of his career. This one tasting would shape his palate and guide his path more than any other he had yet been a part of. The wines being poured were all imported by Kermit Lynch and the speaker was the national sales manager at that time for this famous French Import Company. To listen to Christopher talk about that tasting – even today – will convince you of his dedication to artisanal, hand-crafted, estate bottled, naturally produced French wines. ESPECIALLY Burgundies!

Another moment in time came when Christopher was working retail for one of the giants of the industry – also in the Dallas area – and met the national representative for Vineyard Brands. At that time, in the very early 1990s, VB represented the absolute best of Burgundy. With a little help, Christopher was off to Burgundy for a two week meeting with folks such as Thierry Matrot, Mongeard-Mugneret and the late Monsieur Gouges to name but a few. Christopher would return to Burgundy nearly a dozen times more after that trip, sealing his love for this region and further developing his expertise for its wines. Visits to the cellars at DRC, Dujac, D’Angerville and more than 3 dozen others over multiple vintages honed his skills for understanding the differences in these terroirs and the subtleties of vintages.

By the mid 1990s, Christopher had established a relationship with David Hinkle of North Berkeley Imports as well. Further visits with the finest names of Burgundy as represented by this firm simply cemented a life’s love and work. Magnien, Arlaud, Raphet – the names read like a who’s-who of Burgundy. Naturally, there’s more to life than just Burgundy. Christopher’s passion for the best also includes studies of the greatest wines of the Rhone Valley, Italy and Spain. Not to mention the time he’s spent up and down the coast in California with some of the best names in Pinot Noir, Rhone Varietals and Chardonnay. This association led naturally to his involvement with, and love for, Biodynamic® and naturally produced wines.

In 1999, Christopher Massie opened his own retail shop, Christopher’s Wine Warehouse, which operated successfully in the Houston market for more than ten years. Christopher’s evolved over time from a “stack ‘em high and let ‘em fly” philosophy to a more focused, email and web-driven sales model. These ten years as a sole proprietor, tasting each and every selection personally before purchase, further refined Christopher’s palate and allowed him to develop a deep understanding and appreciation for Biodynamic and naturally produced wine. Christopher has dedicated many hours to blogging about Biodynamic wine, which has resulted in special recognition from Demeter-USA for his contributions to the Biodynamic^® wine movement.

So, why would you want to buy from us?

We think it’s clear. We handle some pretty exclusive stuff. The wineries and importers that we choose to work with are ones that Christopher has built a relationship with over many years.  If reviews from the most prominent wine critics on the planet are important to you, if they guide your initial decision making process, feel very comfortable. More than 90% of our hand selected wines have been, for several vintages, very well received by names such as Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator and other prominent wine writers. And while we do not necessarily seek out critical acclaim, we feel proud to let you know that it has been bestowed on the products we offer to our discerning clients.

When you purchase your wines from Trois Coeurs you will be completely guaranteed that we have taken great care to taste, research and fully discover each and every one.

As with every item we select, as we have been from the beginning, we remain:

Dedicated to the discovery and enjoyment of the world’s finest wines. 

Biodynamic^® Wines – A Brief Q&A

FIRST, let’s define the word:

BIODYNAMIC:

(AGRICULTURE DEFINITION)

Biodynamic^® agriculture is an ecological farming system that views the farm as a self-contained and self-sustaining organism. Emphasis is placed on the integration of crops and livestock, recycling of nutrients, soil maintenance, and the health and well-being of the animals, the farmer, the farm, and the earth: all are integral parts that make up the whole.

With that in mind, where did all of this come from?

HISTORY OF BIODYNAMIC FARMING:

In 1924 a group of European farmers approached Dr. Rudolf Steiner (noted scientist, philosopher, and founder of the Waldorf School) after noticing a rapid decline in seed fertility, crop vitality and animal health. In response, Steiner held a series of lectures that presented the farm as a living organism: self-contained and self-sustaining, responsible for creating and maintaining its individual health and vitality. This was in sharp contrast to the view of the farm as factory, able to boast production by importing chemical pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, which was largely responsible for the observations of depleted vitality noted by the farmers who sought Steiner’s guidance. Steiner was one of the first public figures to question the long-term benefits of this manufacturing view of agriculture, to warn of its environmentally destructive practices, and to propose an alternative to chemical agriculture.

Great, so Steiner warns us to become more quality focused, but who’s going to ensure the rules are followed?

HISTORY OF BIODYNAMIC CERTIFICATION:

In 1928, following Steiner’s agricultural lectures, Demeter (named for the Greek goddess of agriculture) was formed in Europe to promote Biodynamic farming, initiating the first publicly organized promotion of “sustainable” agriculture. A certification system, defined by rigorous farming and processing standards, was implemented, making Demeter the very first ecological label for organically produced foods. Today, Demeter International remains the only internationally recognized Biodynamic certifier and consists of a network of individual certification organizations in 45 countries around the world. In the U.S. Demeter Association, a non-profit, was formed in 1985 to promote Biodynamic agriculture here, and is the sole holder of the U.S. Patent Office certification marks DEMETER^®, BIODYNAMIC^®, and DEMETER CERTIFIED BIODYNAMIC^®. In order for a commercial farm or product to legally use the term BIODYNAMIC it must have obtained certification through Demeter. The Farming and Processing Standards underlying the certification enable Demeter to protect Biodynamic agriculture and in doing so, to pursue its vision of healing the planet through agriculture.

I’ve heard the term “organic.” Where did THAT come from?

THE ORIGIN OF “ORGANIC”:

Rudolph Steiner’s concept of “the farm as organism” was adapted in the 1940’s by the English Baron, Lord Northbourne, an agricultural science teacher at Oxford University, who, inspired by Steiner’s writings, first coined the term “organic farming.” In the 1950’s, influenced by the rise of Biodynamic farming in Europe, the American J.I. Rodale popularized the term “organic” in his publication “The Organic Farmer.” Like its Biodynamic forbearer, primary importance was placed on soil health, eschewing synthetic chemicals, and encouraging the use of compost, cover crops, and holistic pest and weed management. However there was a divergence from the fundamental view of the farm as organism. In 2002 the USDA implemented the National Organic Program (NOP), defining the standard for organic food by focusing on allowed and prohibited materials including the prohibition of synthetic pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers- instead of the farming system.

SO, “organic” farming allows for “outside” materials to enter the farm, interesting. How does Biodynamic differ?

BIODYNAMIC^® PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICES:

Biodynamic^® agriculture views the farm as a self-contained, self- sustaining ecosystem responsible for creating and maintaining its individual health and vitality without any external or unnatural additions. It is an integrated farming system that addresses the health of the entire property and maximizes the unique characteristics of each farm.

In practice, soil, plants, animals and humans together create this image of a holistic living organism. On-farm recycling improves the individualizing character of the farm and includes the integration of animals and animal feeds, perennial plants, flowers and trees, water features, and composting. Farms reduce dependence on imported materials for fertility and pest control. Water conservation is emphasized. Specially prepared medicinal plants, minerals, and composted animal manures help increase the vitality of the products grown and further anchor each individual farm in time and place. Biodynamic farms are required to maintain at least 10 percent of total acreage as a biodiversity set-aside. Riparian zones, wetlands, grasslands, and forests: all are considered an integral part of the life of the farm. Biodynamic farming is holistic land stewardship at its best. It is the highest paradigm of sustainable farming, offering one of the smallest carbon footprints of any agricultural method.

VERY interesting, tell me more…

USE OF THE PREPARATIONS:

A distinguishing feature of Biodynamic agriculture is the use of nine preparations made from herbs, mineral substances and animal manures that are utilized in field sprays and compost inoculants applied in minute doses, much like homeopathic remedies are for humans. Timely applications revitalize the soil and stimulate root growth, enhance the development of microorganisms and humus formation, and aid in photosynthetic activity.

I’ve heard that the planets and especially the moon are important to farmers who are certified Biodynamic, how does that work?

ASTRONOMICAL CALENDAR CONSIDERATIONS:

Farmers throughout time have realized that nature can be more fully understood by studying and integrating natural, cyclical rhythms as well as the gravitational pull of the moon on the earth’s moisture. Many Biodynamic farmers refer to the astronomical calendar when planning activities such as pruning, cultivating, harvesting, and spraying the preparations. This emphasis on the importance of qualitative observation rather than relying solely upon quantified data is an important holistic contribution to the field of sustainable agriculture.

And what about Demeter-certified products?

DEMETER CERTIFIED CROPS VERSUS PRODUCTS:

The crop (for example, a tomato) that results from a certified farm is Biodynamic, but in order for a processed product (for example, tomato sauce) to be called “Biodynamic” it must have been made with Biodynamic ingredients and processed in accordance with the Demeter Processing Standard. The intent of the Processing Standard is to protect against manipulation of the product as much as possible to allow for the identity of the Biodynamic agricultural ingredients used to come through. Although the number of Demeter certified products in the US market is growing quickly, worldwide Demeter has been recognized as a quality seal for many decades. Demeter’s product list includes produce, dairy, grains, wine and distilled spirits, oils, coffee and tea, body care products, medicinal herbs, meats and breads.

The bottom line is, when one takes time to compare through exhaustive tastings, as we do, wines produced by certified Biodynamic producers, to products bottled by commercial, mass-producing companies, the purity of flavors and quality of fruit that you’ll easily discern in the Biodynamic wines is obvious.

Taste people!

That’s all you need to do…

 

“Trois Coeurs”

Currently Representing:

Cooper Mountain Vineyards

 In 1978 Cooper Mountain Vineyards began when Dr. Bob Gross and his wife Corrine planted the first Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines. The two of them tended the vines and carefully nurtured them as they established in the unique soils of Cooper Mountain.

As a leader in Oregon’s environmentally-conscious wine industry, Cooper Mountain Vineyards strives to produce authentic wines that are not only certified organic, but also certified Biodynamic®. ALL of their wines are certified. Currently Cooper Mountain is also working towards obtaining carbon neutrality.

Since 1992, Cooper Mountain Vineyards has been committed to producing high-quality wines made from organic grapes. Cooper Mountain was the second winery in Oregon to gain its organic certification, and set out to change the world’s perception of organic wine by producing several that are high quality and authentic.

In 1999 Cooper Mountain became the first winery in the Pacific Northwest to obtain biodynamic certification. Working towards this certification naturally lead to an understanding that a healthier vineyard begins with healthier soil.  Healthier soil results in expansive root systems, which essentially channel terroir into the grapes. 

The resulting wine is intimately connected to the estate.  Hence the primary distinction between Biodynamic, organic and conventionally grown wines is that Biodynamic grape growing develops the vineyard’s greatest potential—allowing the vineyard to be the best it can be—and then captures that distinctiveness in the bottle.

The work performed by these dedicated artisans over the past several decades has not gone unnoticed.  With many “outstanding” reviews (scores of 90 or above) from professional publications such as Wine Spectator to their credit, Cooper Mountain Vineyards sends a clear message that Biodynamic winemaking truly results in world-class products.  One taste of their singular Pinots, Pinot Gris or mouthwatering Chardonnays will transform your thoughts and secure these wines in your mind as leaders in their respective categories.

Cooper Mountain Vineyard Pinot Gris Reserve Willamette Valley Oregon 

Cooper Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay Reserve Willamette Valley Oregon

Cooper Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir Reserve Willamette Valley Oregon 

 

“Trois Coeurs”

Currently Representing:

VERGE Wine Cellars

 VERGE Wine Cellars is dedicated to producing expressive Syrah from unique parcels and vineyards throughout the North Coast. Sourcing their fruit from vineyards on the edges of the wild, they strongly believe that organic and biodynamic growers produce better grapes and the best Syrah.

They take a minimalist approach in the cellar. Native yeasts contribute to what they call the Wild Stamp – which is the overall ecological footprint of the vineyard, present in the wine itself. The reds are only racked one time prior to bottling. Filtering and fining are dependent on the vintage but generally used only when absolutely necessary. They don’t want to strip any of the goodness or uniqueness from these wickedly good vineyards. Their barrel regime revolves around the occasional stirring and a combination of new and used French Oak. Each year it varies, but they shoot for 20-30% new. Their main goal in the cellar is to make age-worthy Syrah that is expressive of site and demonstrates what California Syrah in particular is all about.

It’s their intention to let Syrah shine, and the best Syrah comes from places off the beaten path, where vines are influenced by entire ecosystems. Be it mountainous, coastal or nestled against a living and breathing forest, they see these vineyards as lying on the fringe. And they consider the fringe a thrilling place to be. Thus, they call these destinations Fringe Vineyards, and their mission is to seek them out.

They set out to spotlight fringe farmers who respect the wild ecosystems around them, and grow amazing Syrah. Their goal is to create a hub of dynamic organic farmers who are leading the charge.

Dry Creek Valley is their home. It’s where they make wine, and where they fell in love with Syrah. Although future Fringe Vineyards may lie outside its boundaries, the majority of their production will be Dry Creek Valley centric as this tiny appellation is perfect for Rhone varietals and the expressive style of Syrah they seek.

The man behind the vines at Verge is none other than Mike Brunson. Working at various wineries during college inspired him to devote his life’s work to small-scale, premium wine production. With stints at River Run Vintners and Sky Vineyards, Brunson returned to Northern Sonoma County in 1994 as Cellarmaster for Michel Schlumberger and eventually was tapped for the top post of Winemaker/Vineyard Manager in 2004. Brunson led the charge to convert the 100-acre ranch to an organically farmed estate and is a leader in advocating organic viticulture in Sonoma County.

Verge Wine Cellars Dry Creek Valley Syrah 2006 

Verge Wine Cellars Dry Creek Valley Syrah 2007

Verge Wine Cellars Dry Creek Valley Viognier 2008

 

“Trois Coeurs”

Currently Representing:

Farmstead Wines

 Farmstead Wines are made by the very same farmers who grow the grapes, without irrigation, chemicals or manipulation. Farmstead Wines are perfect for pairing with sustainable and local foods.

Farmstead Wines is committed to providing delicious, handcrafted, earth-friendly wine made by the same farmers who cultivate the grapes. They proudly place the Farmstead Wines seal on each of their wines as a guarantee of authenticity — a commitment that the Farmstead Wines selection is handcrafted by farmers, through natural methods. They pledge to continue the search for great tasting, family farmed wines. 

They use a set of strict selection criteria that are very difficult to meet individually, let alone together. It makes their search for great wine difficult, yet immensely pleasurable.

Vinaroon-crafted. Each wine in the Farmstead Wines collection is hand-made by the same people who cultivate the grapes. Their farmers are masters of their craft and have an intimate connection with their land. This passion and knowledge are mirrored in the wine.  Great wine is made in the vineyard, not the laboratory.

Small, family farms. Their wines come from small, family vineyards. These farms are known in their local communities for their long-standing, traditional approaches to winemaking.  Whether farming for generations or just a few years their approach respects and delicately tends the earth.

Naturally farmed. Their farmers utilize practices associated with sustainable agriculture and biodiversity, not limited to environmentally friendly practices like natural pest control and natural irrigation. Following the success of the artisan food movement, Farmstead Wines values the pleasures of the table and protects their food heritage against homogenization in what is becoming an increasingly fast food culture. Their approach includes a conscious effort towards taste education and sourcing of unique wines and varietals.

Simply delicious. Every bottle in the Farmstead Wines collection is delicious and delivers value for its price. Farmstead Wines are balanced and harmonious with a focus on depth and complexity of flavors.

Agricola Marrone Moscato D’ Asti La Morra “Sole D’ Oro” 2007

Sutor Winery “Burja” (Rebula, Laski Rizling and Malvasia) Vipava, Slovenia 2006

Martin Arndorfer Gruner Veltliner Strasser Weinberge Kamptal, Austria 2006

Renato Fenocchio Barbera D’ Alba “Elena” D.O.C. 2006 

 

“Trois Coeurs”

Currently Representing:

Domenico Selections

 “If pure, unbridled bang for the buck is the qualifier, then this group of wines represents my favorite collection within our portfolio.  There, I’ve said it, now let’s pull some Campanian corks and down some Venetian Soave…” Christopher

Domenico’s mission is to seek out small wineries that are making wines truly reflective of their territory, the local grape varieties they use, and the skills and aspirations of the winemakers. They visit each winery several times before they sign them up. They like to see the vineyards at different seasons. They like to taste the wine at every step of its development.

Most of their producers make a small amount of wine. They tend the vines themselves, and they “raise” the wine with the artisan’s devoted attention from the crush to bottling.

Domenico’s team prefers wines that are biologico (organically grown and made). They like the way these wines smell and taste. They have a clean, precise attack and a distinctiveness that sets them apart from many wines in their zone.

They make sure that each wine is not only a pleasure to drink – it must represent excellent value.

The search goes on. Domenico is devoted to scouring the hills and the little villages of Italy. They tramp through the muddy vineyards. They shiver in the cellars, tasting tank samples as the snow swirls. They love the wines, the people and the beauty of the land.

Veneto –

i Stefanini Soave Superiore Classico D.O.C.G. “Monte di Fice” 2006 (90 WS) 

i Stefanini Soave D.O.C.  “Il Selese” 2008 (90 WS)

i Stefanini Vino Spumanti Chardonnay Brut IGT

Villa Monteleone “Campo San Vito” Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2004

Puglia –

Mazzone Malvasia IGT “Immensus” 2007

Campania –

Angelarosa Greco di Tufo D.O.C.G. 2007 (87 WA – A.G.) 

Angelarosa Fiano di Avellino D.O.C.G. 2007 (87 WA – A.G.)

Mustilli Sant’Agata Dei Goti D.O.C. “Vigna Segreta” (Falanghina) 2007 

Boccella Campi Taurasini D.O.C. “Rasott” (Aglianico d’Avellino) 2006 (88 WA – A.G.)

Terra di Vento Colli di Salerno IGT “Petrale” (Aglianico Salerno) 2006 (88 WA – A.G.)

Reale Andrea Colli di Salerno IGT “Cardamone” (70% Piedirosso/30%Tintore) 2007

Reale Andrea Colli di Salerno IGT “Borgo di Gete” (100% Tintore) 2005

Basilicata –

Musto Carmelitano Aglianico del Vulture D.O.C. “Serra del Prete” 2007 

Ceago – Fantastic Value, Biodynamic Pioneer

They call this place a “vinegarden”.  And if you find yourself near Clear Lake, Lake County, California about two hours outside both San Fran and Sacramento, take my advice, spend the day with Jim Fetzer, President of Ceago, and his winemaker, Javier Tapia.  For not only are the wines delicious – especially the Sauvignon Blanc – but the history lessons they offer on the practices of biodynamic wine production are fantastic.  Jim and Javier have a way of literally walking you through the practices, step by step, as they lead you through their living vinegarden in such a way that you’ll come away with an understanding of their art and an appreciation of biodynamic wine-making as something actually quite practical.

Jim Fetzer has been working in the field of natural, organic and now biodynamic wine making since his time with his father in the 1970s.  His father taught him to consider the phases of the moon as a practical time for “racking” the barrels, for example.  The dark of the moon results in the greatest gravity, and Fetzer was taught to use those days for “racking”, when the sediment would naturally be pulled to the bottom of the barrels .   More than 30 years ago, the Fetzers understood the simple logic behind low and high tides and how these factors, tied to the natural forces of Mother Nature, could be used to benefit the winemaker.  Today’s biodynamic practices, in full force and certified by Demeter-USA at Ceago Vinegarden, are the natural progression of Fetzer’s life long work in the field of natural wine making.

Touring this biodynamic place results in a clear understanding of not only the winemaking practices, but the entire theory of a self-sustaining ecosystem.  There are diverse crops, such as olive orchards, a beautiful lavender field and gardens galore.  Biodynamics call for multiple cultures occurring at once in a vineyard, and Ceago takes this theory to heart.  Further showcasing the work of biodynamic farming, you’ll witness rye grass and poppies growing between the vines, bringing beneficial insects to the vineyard.  There are so many other amazing, seemingly simple, and practical measures in place here as well, from the chickens that protect the vines from worm infestation to the sheep that assist the vineyard in their own little ways.  It’s truly a wonderful, natural and beautiful place, and I cannot think of a better way to spend a long afternoon.

And then, there is this wine they call their best:

Tasting the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Kathleen’s Vineyard, self-described by Fetzer as the “main” wine emanating from the Ceago cellars, is a breath of pure sunshine.  The fruit purity can only be described as being miles above practically everything else in the region.  But it’s the slight effervescence that truly captures one’s attention.  By resting the wine in one of the coldest cellars you’ll ever visit, Fetzer and Tapia aim to trap the wine’s natural spritz, allowing the wine to have an ever-so-slightly “frizzante” quality.  This combination of fruit and spritz – just a touch, mind you – offers one of the most unique and lip-smacking wines you’ll enjoy all Summer.

And at direct from the winery pricing, this will be the best $16 you spend on a bottle of wine….

AmByth Estate – Biodynamic Beauty

While on our recent tour in search of the perfect location for our next venture, I took a few moments one early morning to check the hotel computer, just in case my in-box had any surprises for me.  My passion for the world of biodynamic wines has me sharing every tidbit of information I come across these days so it’s not unusual to have 40 or 50 new emails waiting for me some mornings.  This particular morning, with its crisp clean Virginia air and cool blue sky greeting me, would see my in-box offering me one of the more personally exciting notes I’ve received lately.

I suppose most folks wouldn’t think twice about receiving a short note from Demeter-USA, in fact I’d be willing to bet a majority of folks have never heard of the organization.  But for me, with all the efforts I’ve put forth in the formation of our new company, beginning with the months of research that have gone towards this new business plan, all with the end goal in sight of a venture based almost exclusively on biodynamic wines and organic foods, this note was a sort of recognition.  It was, in a way, a small beacon, if you will, perhaps nudging me forward, encouraging me to not give up hope. 

The work we’ve put into this plan of ours, this plan to build a business that offers wine drinkers the purity and expressiveness that is the natural result of biodynamic wine making, has been intense.  We now are turning our attention to gathering like-minded individuals to build the foundation, and these are the times that try my soul.  But the letter from the Marketing Director from Demeter-USA has given me just enough encouragement to move forward.  My dedication to these products, fueled even more by a taste of AmByth Estate’s wines, continues….

AmByth Estate, based in Templeton, CA, is a Demeter certified biodynamic vineyard producing Demeter certified biodynamic wines.  For those new to, or newly interested in the world of biodynamic wines, I encourage a visit to http://www.demeter-usa.org/ for a brief introduction.  My place in this picture is one of advocate or ambassador.  I have tasted enough of these types of wines to know how good they can be and to have formed a preference for them, resulting in my dedication to building a company that will offer them to the public.  Demeter, however, offers insights on the “how’s” and “why’s” of biodynamics. 

Returning to AmByth Estate now, we find ourselves in the appellation of Paso Robles, at the region’s first and ONLY certified biodynamic winery.  Much like another of my favorite producers, and very much in keeping with the philosophies, you’ll find only native yeasts here.  Engage with me, or any wine-maker serious about terroir, and you’ll have yourself hours of conversation on that one fact alone; native yeast is one paramount factor to producing wines that speak of their origin.  And these wines from AmByth (the Welsh word meaning “forever”), as I’m fond of saying, scream of their place and time.

AmByth Estate is most-known for their Grenache, and it is precisely this wine that I find particularly worthy of your attention.  Revealing complexities and nuances reminiscent of France’s Chateauneufs from producers like Villeneuve or single vineyard Rhone producers such as Montirius, this is a Grenache for pleasure seekers.  Bursting with black and red fruits, all wrapped in a delicious frame of assorted spices and perfect acidity, this beauty will marry well with not only grilled meats, but your favorite pastas and medium cheeses, too.  The purity and balanced alcohol level make it a wine for the entire meal and the aromas continue to develop for hours.  Take your time with this one, you’ll be rewarded….

And at $135 a three-pack ($45 per bottle), it’s a great buy, too!

And as always, I’d like to know what you think: chambertin@sbcglobal.net

Phenomenal Pinot – Roessler Direct to YOU

Hello again friends,

For several vintages now, including a couple of offers some of you enjoyed in the old wine shop, I’ve been discussing the wines from Roessler Cellars in Sonoma.  Home to some of the finest Pinot Noirs I not only have sold, but collect and regularly consume as well, Roessler routinely releases what many in the wine world consider some of this country’s most Burgundian-styled offers one may find.  With aromas, textures and balanced weight that combine to form pristine and focused wines unmatched by most in Sonoma, this is a winery you should seriously place on your radar.

In 2004, one of my most respected colleagues, Stephen Tanzer, described the Roessler “Bluejay” as offering “aromatics reminiscent of Burgundy”, high praise indeed from a wine writer and critic most of us in the professional wine writing world consider the most difficult palate on the planet.  Adding more high praise to Roessler, my personal favorite Pinot critic, Allen Meadows, AKA Burghound, described a 2004 Savoy as a wine that was “very pure” and one that would “please purists”, again giving a nod to we Burgundy drinkers.  It’s praise like this that sent me in search of these treasures in the first place.  I was NOT disappointed.

I have tasted all three of the wines you have an opportunity to latch onto today.  Each is a classic, deserving of its lofty scores and near cult status.  I’ve routinely scored the wines 90 and above for their purity, balance and sheer grace and the ability these offers have of expressing their individual terroirs is magical.  That’s the point of classic Pinot Noir; be they Burgundian, West Coast, or a magical marriage of the two, we true “purists”, as Burghound describes us, demand individuality.

And these Roesslers offer that by the bucket-full.

And priced at $99 for the 3 pack, this is the best deal out there!

 

Biodynamic Updates – And Some New Wines to Try

We’ve just returned from our scouting trip to Virginia and my mind this morning is swimming with ideas.  The local wine scene in Richmond is vastly different than the one evidenced by consumers in the metropolis where I currently reside, with the most obvious contrast being the abundance of boutique shops adorning the landscape.  From one corner of that beautiful city, with its trees as tall as skyscrapers as far as the eye can see, boutique wine shops, offering wines I’ve come to love over the past many years and decades, open the consumer’s eyes to a world of wine completely unknown in this big city where I reside.

As my family and I researched the market, we discovered that Virginia, in particular Richmond, is quite suited for the type of business we wish to bring to the good people of this friendly region.  And having visited with more than a dozen locals, each with their own personal insights, it would seem that while the market is ripe for what we have in mind, our product selection – not to mention location – is going to be crucial. 

Of the nearly dozen stores I spent time visiting, only one (that’s 1) offered the community the types of biodynamic wines that will be the focus of our new venture.  Opportunity?  I certainly like to think so.  Especially when one considers how over-priced the offers were.  Pricing these naturally made wines that far above national average only serves to diminish the marketability of these wines.  And let’s face it, these are not mainstream wines in the first place.  Most biodynamic wines are from places the average consumer has never heard of – or at the very least rarely considered – and we as advocates of these great vinous specimens need to price these wines as consumer-friendly as possible if we’re to ever have a shot at repeat purchases.  Selling an $18 Loire Valley Pineau d’Aunis for $24, simply because you have no competition (yet) is not likely to encourage repeat purchases.

That being said, I did notice there were other, even more obvious opportunities in the market, speaking on the biodynamic front in particular.  And understanding California’s hesitance to jump on the wagon so adored by the Europeans, resulting in fewer biodynamic wineries out West than what we find from across the pond, it’s probably reasonable to see so few wines of the genre adorning shelves not only in Virginia, but anywhere these days.  West Coast offers of the biodynamic sort were quite difficult to locate while in Virginia, just as in many states.  But now that I’ve returned home, to my cellar, I once again bring to your attention the work being performed by one of the best.

His name is Coturri, and his wines, from some of the purest and most biodynamic in California, are among my favorites.  Drinking Tony’s wines, as I hope many of you reading this will resolve yourselves to do, secures his place as a leader in the natural wine movement.  His wines not only “speak” of their origin, they quite literally scream of place and time.  His Pinots prove that yes, indeed, with attention to pure, vineyard sustaining practices while harvesting with an eye towards balanced acidities and lower sugars, this country can very well offer the Burgundian palate a wine they’ll love.  And at price points that make most “simple Bourgognes” appear over priced.

Try these out friends, and let me know what you think:

 

Some Smashing New Discoveries

These past several days have most certainly inched along.  These have been ones spent working through the final pages of the business plan.  And these are the dreaded yet absolutely vital dozen or so pages known as the “financial” section, where the passionate prose takes a back seat to pure numbers; where the left-brain oriented folks will grasp the business plan firmly in hand and have their most satisfaction.  More than 150 hours of the most mind-numbing number-crunching work has resulted in balanced books, 5 years of projections and Certified Public Accountant approved cash flow statements and so much more that span 5 years in to the future.  And through it all, I’ve managed to find the time to discover the road to some pretty amazing new discoveries on the wine front, too.

Those who’ve followed along have no doubt noticed my unabashed recognition for the biodynamic wines making headlines these past many weeks and months.  I’ve long preached the benefits and merits of the organic and natural stuff, but the advancements in the world of biodynamics, where wine-makers are taking the organic movement to a far greater level, and where we’re all witnessing an ever-expanding brother/sister-hood of members, is offering the interested and eager wine-consumer of this new generation some of the most intriguing wines of our life-time.  Where once the term organic wine conjured up notions of barely palatable juice, the work of extremely high-profile wineries in the field of biodynamic wine now elicits excitement as the world becomes ever-increasingly awakened.

So you’ll all understand my obvious bit of interest at the arrival of an invitation in the form of an email just a couple of days ago.  This invitation set in motion my perusal of a website.  A website dedicated to bringing to the American wine drinker a group of wineries currently flying just a bit under the proverbial radar of the “big” wine critics.  And the moment I performed my first search of the collection, I wanted to be a part of the action. 

If you’ve listened to the murmur that’s rustling about down in the basement of the wine world today, you may have heard the little tale some like to call, “The Bloggers VS. Robert Parker.”  We bloggers have taken to proudly reviewing more and more wine these past years, with yours truly having been in the prose authoring business for more than a decade.  And while I certainly have no official magazine to call my own, I take pride in my work behind the keyboard.  Having the mighty Parker attack we bloggers, therefore, is one of the reasons I am proud to become a part of the wine critiquing community – if even on a scale as tiny as the one I’m joining today.

My hope is to introduce to my readers – whomever you few and greatly appreciated may be – some of the great biodynamic, organic and natural wines that I’m coming across through my travels these days.  And to introduce these wines to you through a wine website that you may order these products through so that you may have them delivered to your home with a peace of mind that these are wines that I personally enjoy and endorse.  Perhaps these wines have never seen the pages of the “big” reviewer, but that, to me, is all the more reason for we wine DRINKERS to seek them out.

The first group of wines I wish to bring to all of you tonight include two wines from the great naturalist Tony Coturri.  Tony works with several vineyards, both in the state I currently reside as well as his home state, some being certified organic with others certified as biodynamic.  He is one of the very few wine makers I’ve ever met who consistently discusses the importance of sugar to acid balance in his grapes at the time of harvest.  And while this may seem quite elementary, indeed it actually appears to have escaped many folks of the vine as they look for the almighty high sugar levels in their grapes for the end result of high scores.  Tony is a natural yeast proponent, knowing that natural wine can only be made with its indigenous yeasts, making him all the more one of my favorite wine producers.  Indigenous yeasts identify a wine and speak of a wine’s region / terroir / local conditions; to rob the grapes of their natural yeasts is just as detrimental as the use of land destroying chemicals or over cropping and extreme yields.  Drink these wines from Tony and you’ll be ready when I discuss my next round from him…

Also in the offers are three wines from the man known as “Mr. Green.”  Paul Dolan has been the leader in organic and now biodynamic wine making in California for more than 30 years – that’s not a typo folks, 30 years!  Since the 1970s, Dolan has been working to turn California wine making organic and his vineyards in Mendocino are certified both organic as well as biodynamic with the Dark Horse Ranch being certified biodynamic since 2005.  If ever there were a single wine maker based in California elected as THE president of the American biodynamic movement, Dolan may quite possibly be our Nicolas Joly.

I hope each person taking the time to read this short and heart felt passage will take a moment to consider these wines for your next adventure: 

 

 
Once you’ve tried them, I fully expect a full report…
Christopher Massie
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommelier

Oh, for a Glass of Wine

Another excruciating day comes to a close, witnessing me once again crunching the numbers on this business plan as we make ourselves ready for the first printing.  Thus far, only a handful of our closest allies are primed for the first draft of this 60+ page business plan.  And the pages are indeed impressive.  My mind has been on over drive these past few days and the early mornings and sleepless nights have been numerous.  This particular business plan has been born from a decade of blood, sweat and tears; there are no errors here – the holes have been filled with hindsight.

And as we’ve worked so diligently on this plan, my wife and I, we’ve set certain other parts of our lives on autopilot.  Flipping that switch has been fairly easy considering that we’re both among the ranks of the unemployed.  So we’ve set about feeding our updates to the outside world through the use of modern technology.  Google alerts, LinkedIn, TwitterFeed and a whole host of other modern gadgets assist us in our endeavors to appear “plugged in” while we bury ourselves with the task at hand.

But today, ’round late afternoon, we’d had enough.  We seriously needed a glass of wine.  And with all the work and all the research and with all the tales of righteous palate satiating we’d uncovered through all these efforts, we were not going to be satisfied with anything less than: yep you guessed it.  We wanted one of those ultimate glasses of biodynamic wines.

Ah, biodynamic wines – the allure is oh-so-strong, yet the offers in my current city of residence are so frightfully and tragically limited.

There once was a beauty of a collection in this town…. But we won’t traverse that field this evening….

Adding to our desire for a glass of the sublime was our wish for something home cooked – and not of the beef variety.  So we packed in, faced the late mid-day traffic and headed to Central Market.  The local version of this Texas dream store (for some) has taken to sending out “shopper’s cards” and coupons – good only locally (don’t dare try to use ‘em in Austin, the clerks will immediately identify you as “one of the Houston shoppers”).  My wife has collected both “the card” and quite a few of the coupons, so we decided to cash them in.

It appears that the generosity emanating from the folks in charge behind the fish counter, not to mention the good will intentions motivating the “shopper’s card” rebates, have yet to topple the cash cow in the wine department.  The prices on the wines (including their discounts offered on 6 bottles or more) are pure highway robbery.  Wines once selling at a shop (that this city ran out of town on a rail) for $15 are proudly displayed for $21!  And my desired Joly?  Would we be celebrating our hard work with the beauty of Coulee?  At that price?  In that condition?  I think not.

We returned home with our fresh halibut, at a tremendous savings, and a couple blocks of cheese – proper dates, nice and fresh.  I cracked a nice bottle of white burgundy, grilled the fish and some fresh veggies and we called it a day.  Little M ate her proverbial pasta and corn on the cob and now all of us are dreaming of the day when we can direct import our dream wines right to a little corner store in Short Pump Virginia.

All the best in wine and life,

Christopher Massie
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommelier

A Biodynamic Roundup

Blog Update #73, 2009: A Biodynamic Roundup

I’ve chronicled our steps towards the building of a new and vastly improved family business through these blog updates, sharing daily discoveries over at my social network page where I’m known by the “handle” of Chambertin.   As we dig down deep this morning to hopefully complete the final chapter of what promises to be one of the most concise and well researched business plans yet penned on the wine business (by us at least), I thought I’d take just a few minutes to compose a brief roundup of my findings.   If you’re new to the world of biodynamic wines, or even if you’re a seasoned veteran, this compilation may come as a surprise.

The world of biodynamic wines is home to a great deal more inhabitants than I ever thought possible, spanning more continents than I once realized.  Having spent 25 years in the wine business, and after working the vineyards in Burgundy for 2 harvests towards the earning of my Sommelier certification, I am keenly aware of the importance of biodynamic wines to the French.  In Italy, too, there are a number of wine-makers practicing the art, offering the consumer some of the world’s most unique and individualistic vinous specimens. 

But what has come as most surprising to me, perhaps due in large part to my prior admitted bias, are the number of certified “biodynamic” producers from regions once considered far too “modern” for the incorporation of these idealistic measures.  Without getting too far into the whole philosophy, for this brief essay is certainly not intended as a text book on the intricacies of the how’s and why’s of Bio-D, let’s just say that to many in the world of “modern” wine making, the theories of applying various teas to the compost and vines, preceded by burying cow horns full of manure in ones vineyard are viewed as, well, unnecessary (to put it mildly).  But try convincing Madame Leroy that Bio-D is unnecessary.  Or, for that matter, attempt a conversation on the benefits of “modern” versus biodynamic with the likes of Chapoutier or the masterful Zind Humbrecht.  These three masters of their universes would verbally run a “modern” wine-maker, with their pesticides and chemical treatments, right out of the room.

So, as mentioned, it has come as most surprising to me to now find numerous once-modern-dominated wine regions becoming ever increasingly sprinkled with biodynamic wineries.  Places such as California’s Napa Valley now offer we lovers of the biodynamic juice a handful of experimental-minded spirits.  Folks dancing with the moon and burying the horns while still living among neighbors who preach the need for fungicides and tractors include such visionaries as Grgich Hills (who began converting more than a decade ago and now fully practices biodynamic principles) and Robert Sinskey.  Granted that’s not a lot of folks considering the thousands of vineyards in the land of plenty, but hey, until a few days ago, I thought NO ONE was Bio-D way out west.

Another region I never considered potentially biodynamic-ready or willing was Australia.  Sure, I’d heard that several estates were “experimenting”, or that they were singling out “portions of their vineyards” for converting.  Hey, I’m experimenting with Bio-D, too.  Every time we brew a batch of home-made tea, we save the leaves and sprinkle them in the garden.  But that certainly doesn’t qualify me as a “biodynamic winery”, let’s be serious, OK?  But just as I was stunned to discover the folks in California, so too was my surprise as I came across a handful of truly Bio-D purists from the land down under.  In particular, again, way out west, my research uncovered one winery specifically that I’m most eager to try: Cullen, from the Margaret River region.  Having been certified biodynamic since 2004, this sounds like precisely the type of estate whose wines I’d like the chance to review.

I suppose the point of this research roundup is as much a reminder as it is a compilation.  A reminder to continue watching the horizon for upcoming releases in the ever expanding world of biodynamic wines.  And a brief compilation of what folks can expect from our new family business as we move forward with our plans of a gourmet wine shop in Richmond Virginia:

(Below is a very, very, very short list of some of the producers you will find in our new venture.  Some we have already engaged in conversation, others we will begin discussions with soon.  This is the first of MANY lists to come…)

• Domaine Rossignol Trapet (Burgundy)
• Coulee de Serrant (Nicolas Joly) (Loire Valley)
• Montirius (Rhone Valley)
• Lopez de Heredia (Rioja)
• Terras Gauda (Rias Baixas)
• Cotturi Winery & La Cruz de Comal (Toni Cotturi) (CA, TX)
• Paul Dolan (CA, Mendocino)
• Shinn Estate Vineyards (NY, Long Island)
• Cullen (Margaret River, AU)
• Nikolaihof (Austria)
• Domaine Jean Bourdy (Jura)
• Clos Saron (CA, Sierra Foothills)
• Antiyal (Maipo)
• Movia (Slovenia)
• Lark Hill Winery (Canberra, AU)
• Seresin Estate (NZ)
• Millton (NZ)

I trust you’ll enjoy the ride as much as we’ve enjoyed this initial building process.  Bringing the world of biodynamic producers to the eager and curious wine lovers of America will be our passion as much as it is our dream and our job.  Stay tuned, we’ve only just begun!

All the best in wine and life,

Christopher Massie
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommelier

A Tale of Biodynamics, Feiring and the Death of the Chronicle

 

Blog Update #72 A Tale of Biodynamics, Feiring and the Death of the Chronicle

The power of the bio-dynamic wine movement first revealed itself as I witnessed a surge in my social network connections that can only be described as unprecedented.  On the 1st of May, I was leisurely working away on my latest business plan, content but far from satisfied at my less than 200 followers at twitter, where I go by the “handle” of Chambertin.  I made a decision that day to get serious about the business plan, motivated in part by the untimely announcement that my dear wife, too, had fallen victim to this current economy.  With both of us now out of work, it was definitely time to ramp up my efforts.

Those who know me, those who’ve read a blog post or newsletter from the past decade or so know: when I write, I have a LOT to say.  Writing, composing my thoughts, requires time.  And when I decide to share my ideas, ideals and passions through the written word, the pages begin to pile.  Lucky for me, that’s precisely the sort of handicap that works in one’s favor when composing a serious business plan.  The more expertise, devotion and research apparent between the covers, the better.  And I had just reached the section devoted to our product selection criteria.

This was when everything began to change for our new business venture.

I took to composing my views on the products we will carry with the same passion I had always tried to convey in our previous wine shop.  The full list of product selection criteria, known to us as our Mission Statement, may be viewed at the blog under the Philosophies tab (http://cepagenoir.wordpress.com/philosophies/).  Our aim with our new direct to the consumer business is to offer to the market these wonderful organic and bio-dynamic wines we’ve discovered over the years, direct from the wineries, with no middleman.  But first, I needed to describe in great detail, for the eventual readers of the business plan, precisely WHAT our wines would be.  That Philosophies section was born from the pages of the business plan.  So, too, was my next step.

I decided to begin searching the Internet for like-minded folk; authors, bloggers, wine-makers, wine-drinkers, basically anyone who shared with us this passion for the bio-dynamic world.  I began with one of my vinous heroes, Alice Feiring, naturally, for it was her book, “The Battle for Wine and Love” that convinced me in the first place that I wasn’t alone in this quest.  I began to link her updates to my twitter page, along with any others mentioning the bio-dynamic world.  The results were like nothing I could have ever anticipated in my wildest dreams.

Today is the 6th of May and I am taking a short break from the business plan to compose this brief blog post.  Not only to compose this post, but to announce that in this short span of a few days, while I have busily worked on the plan and posted bio-dynamic oriented newsletters and such to my twitter page, my followers have jumped from less than 200 to MORE THAN 1,000!  The bio-dynamic brother/sister-hood is one of the most active, real and tangible movements in the wine world today.  For anyone who remains a skeptic, you are truly missing the train!

Oh, and as for the Death of the Chronicle thing, I was referring to the local paper. 

Through the research and development phase of this business plan we’re in, one point has become increasingly clear: Bordeaux is dead.  The vast majority of the wine buyers today, the people who actually drive the industry, the people who truly fill the shopping carts and DRINK wine, are affectionately referred to as the “emerging” consumers.  Emerging consumers, according to studies we’ve read in articles by Forbes, WineBusiness and Silicon Valley Bank, simply don’t care about the $50 and up price point where the vast majority of Classified Bordeaux hangs it hat.  And the bio-dynamic world, so far as WE’VE found, hasn’t made a dent in this section of France (I’m open for corrections if anyone has any).

So it was with a chuckle that I opened my weekly Chronicle (Houston) to see yet another article written by the local wine writer on behalf of the behemoth local liquor chain.  In this article, the paper interviews the giant liquor chain, asking them their advice on Bordeaux futures.  I literally laughed out loud.  The advice quoted was worthless, so 1990s, completely out of touch with reality and the prices quoted SO over-priced (please, someone tell these guys about wine-searcher.com) that to even consider the piece anything other than “fluff” would render the reader numb. 

Dear Chronicle, R.I.P.

As I re-engage the business plan today, and begin anew the building of this bio-brother/sister-hood, I reconfirm our dedication to YOU, the intelligent, serious, curious, emerging wine buyers of America.  We will soon emerge from the cocoon of required re-birth.  And when we do, the beauty of the world’s most unique wines will once again be yours for the asking.

All the best in wine and life,

Christopher Massie
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommelier

Big Establishment Acknowledges the Blog-O-Sphere

 

Blog Update #71, 2009: Big Establishment Acknowledges the Blog-O-Sphere

My first introduction to the concept of applying numerical value to a wine as a way of declaring its worth came in the Summer of 1984.  I was working as a bar back at one of the most prominent Continental restaurants of its time in Dallas, training under the watchful eye and palate of Franco Bertolasi.  Bertolasi was a passionate man of all things food and wine. He was also quite generous.  So it was not uncommon for even the youngest of his staff, including yours truly, to enjoy the final sips from bottles served at tastings that included such luminaries as the acclaimed 1982 Bordeaux, several vintages of DRC and verticals of Ramonet white Burgundy.

It was Bertolasi who introduced me to Parker’s Wine Advocate that Summer of 1984.  Bertolasi preferred Parker’s singular position; Parker was a sole voice, claimed Bertolasi, a man without blemish and Parker’s guide was the most serious of its kind.  I was told by my mentor at that time that the Wine Advocate had been founded on the principles that wine was to be evaluated with no consideration for its heritage nor its price.  Further, I had been instructed, wine was to be reported on honestly and with no punches pulled.  Bertolasi told me that Parker followed these rules and because of Parker’s principles, the Wine Advocate was the only guide to follow. 

By the Spring of 1989 I was a subscriber to the Wine Advocate, having fully immersed myself in the retail side of the wine business after a few years in the restaurant trade.  My first delivered issue, still a part of my library, was number 62, the annual Bordeaux Report, where Parker covered the vintages of 1986, 1987 and 1988.  That was 20 years ago, 120 issues back and a difference of 60 pages and hundreds of wines when compared to the issue that I received in yesterday’s mail.

Issue 62, from way back in 1989, as I re-read it this morning, takes me back to the good ol’ days.  Parker begins his report with the heading “(Optimism reigns supreme)” and offers the reader salient advice regarding the market, buying opportunities and the general nature of the world from the viewpoint of American wine buyers.  His words and reviews are uplifting, straight to the point and read as if they are coming from the world’s foremost authority on the subject.  I remember reading that first issue to be delivered to my tiny suburban apartment.  I recall how it inspired me to begin writing my own newsletter.  I simply remember how inspired I was – period.

I continued to subscribe to the Wine Advocate, as I do to this day, and Parker’s reviews were one of the driving forces behind my decision to enter the import business.  That career move eventually resulted in a face to face encounter with Parker.  I found myself representing several estates that were part of a particular broker’s portfolio from the Languedoc and Roussillon.  Parker and this broker were scheduled to meet and I was invited to participate.  That inaugural bird’s eye view from across a table covered with nearly 5 dozen bottles was my first exposure to the “real” Parker.  A personality much too large to allow for others to say too much, my broker was practically silent that day and I – a man with hundreds of ideas and histories to share – was instructed to please keep my thoughts to myself.  I wondered if perhaps Parker’s schedule was simply too busy that day to allow for a leisurely meeting and discussion of the wines.  Shrugging off the cool nature of the meeting, happy to have had the chance to at least present our products, I and my partner exited and hoped for the best.

I fast forward to today’s issue, this Wine Advocate #182.  Before I touch on the words Parker has elected to print, for his thousands upon thousands of paying subscribers around the globe to read, I have a few other personal thoughts to convey.  I once posted to the bulletin board owned by Parker.  It’s a free service and anyone in the world, supposedly, is allowed to post, comment and retort.  But after witnessing the dismissal from that board of folks I respect and consider colleagues, I decided to call my time over there quits.  Now I realize that Parker himself doesn’t handle the dismissal of people who post, and I also realize that Parker is not the man behind the delete button nor the censorship, but his name is on the welcome page; it is up to Parker to follow the premise he set down in the first published issue of the Wine Advocate.  Suffice to say, my experience at “The Board” left me with an even colder feeling on my skin than that first face to face encounter many years ago.

There is also my perception of the handling by Parker of someone I have come to hold a great amount of respect for in the wine business.  My wife gave to me as a Valentine’s Day present a book entitled “The Battle for Wine and Love”.  Those who know the book know it well.  Those who haven’t read it: GO GET IT!  In the book, Alice Feiring interviewed Parker.  Until reading that interview, in the context of reading the book, and with my own personal decades of experience adding credibility to that chapter, I continued holding hope for Parker’s return to grace.  After finishing the book, and after today’s reading of issue #182, things are looking ever increasingly gloomy on the horizon.

Or are they?

Robert Parker, the Robert Parker manning the wheel behind the Wine Advocate is an attorney.  He calculates his words, he finishes critical sentences with question marks: remember that scathing statement within a question regarding my old acquaintance Francois Faiveley?  He waited months before announcing to a Houston-based on-line social network site that they should cease and desist with the use of his photograph as an avatar.  Also in the social network scene, he seemingly chuckled at a completely fabricated site claiming to actually BE Robert Parker.  Notices at his bulletin board now state he has taken measures to handle that issue, but it took weeks and pages of comments before he acted.

Point?  Parker knows how to market, and how to cross promote.  He does nothing without great thought and consideration for the outcome.  Now I return to the comments publicly printed in today’s copy of the Wine Advocate #182.

Parker has once again taken to the task of covering the latest vintage of Bordeaux, this time it’s the 2008s in barrel.  The tone is decidedly more dismal than that Bordeaux issue from 20 years ago: “With the deepening global economic crisis, I wondered what was the point…”.  Yet it is not the tone regarding the economy that has me questioning Parker’s direction.  It is his extremely public back-handed swipes at bloggers that has my mind and heart at unrest.

Parker has been attacked, he would answer, in books, by movie producers, in the papers and, yes, by bloggers.  But Parker has always maintained his ability to keep his arguments with these critics where these retorts belong: either in the books they emanated from, or in interviews or on the web, or even in the papers.  In all my days as a subscriber, I have NEVER seen him initiate a fight in the pages of the Wine Advocate.  Today, he did.

Or, like I insinuated, did he?

Parker actually states, not infers, actually states, that many “notorious blogs” are authored by people who can’t “string a noun and verb together”.  Further, Parker goes on to attack bloggers again (before he ever once delves into his details on the vintage at hand), classifying them as “rumor-mongering” and “irresponsible”.  By that point, I needed a glass of wine.  The issue had arrived late yesterday, friends had invited me to join them, and Lageder was beckoning.  Had Parker truly dedicated the first nearly 1,000 words of issue 182 to bashing his “competitors”? 

Or had he just acknowledged us?

As I began to compose this article today, I mentally positioned myself on both sides of the table.  The wealthy, powerful, seemingly soon to retire, actually somewhat humorous Parker as he composes the results of yet another Bordeaux issue.  This is a part of the wine world we Americans who are considered the emerging wine buyers (the ones who drive the industry) are all but finished buying.  How can Parker, “Mr. Bordeaux”, assist this part of the wine world?  How can he draw attention to a vintage he now is touting as “dramatically better than I had expected”, a vintage including wines “that are close to, if not equal to the prodigious 2005 or 2000 vintages…”?  Every person I know simply doesn’t care.  How can Parker “save” Bordeaux? 

And on the opposing side of the table, we have the current uproar from the bloggers.  Forgetting the fact that they set themselves apart from the traditional critical media precisely because they felt ignored (or perhaps because they felt the wines they loved or their ideas were being ignored), bloggers are now fully engaging Parker by attacking him.  But guess what?  That’s working, too.  Readers of the blogs, readers who came to the blogs searching for answers and searching for discussions on wines never explored by the “big names” of critical wine reviewing are now cross referencing.  The bloggers are introducing their readers to a path to Parker.

As I made mention, I have never in my decades of reading the Advocate ever experienced Parker mentioning his competitors.  Never once has Parker, in my memory, mentioned an opposing viewpoint – by name – prior to publishing his own thoughts on a region’s latest offers.  Never has Parker, to my recollection, in a positive or negative way, talked about another method of wine reviewing in his own magazine.

Today, 20 years after my first paid issue of Parker’s Wine Advocate, the Big Establishment acknowledges “Us”.

All the best in wine and life,

Christopher Massie
Diplome D’Honneur de Sommelier

your thoughts are always welcome:

chambertin@sbcglobal.net